“Fashionably nostalgic” is the phrase that sprang to mind as I discovered the unexpected delights of the Kirinda suite at The River House. The setting alone is a reminder of a more gracious era, reassuringly tranquil with the sun reflecting off the placid waters of a broad river. With a houseman summoned by ringing a [...]

The Sundaytimes Sri Lanka

Ah! for the sheer pleasure of peace

Researching unusual hotels to feature in the new edition of The Bradt Guide to Sri Lanka, Royston Ellis stays in a retro-style property in a six-acre riverside plantation
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“Fashionably nostalgic” is the phrase that sprang to mind as I discovered the unexpected delights of the Kirinda suite at The River House.

The River House: Shrouded by a curtain of green

The setting alone is a reminder of a more gracious era, reassuringly tranquil with the sun reflecting off the placid waters of a broad river. With a houseman summoned by ringing a hand bell appearing noiselessly at one’s side with an evening cocktail, River House, although comparatively modern, captures the dignity and leisurely lifestyle that one imagines represents colonial Ceylon.

The extravagance of verdure, of the lush plants and huge trees that shelter River House from the harsh reality of a stress-filled world, creates the perfect retreat. With only four suites(one of which has a four poster bed, a plunge pool and a balcony) in the main house and a separate villa comprising another suite, River House is ideal for a group of friends on holiday together, or for couples who crave the contentment of enchanting exclusivity.

River House is located off the main Colombo to Galle coastal road, just after Balapitiya. It stands on the southern bank of the renowned Madhu Ganga, a river of a hundred islands that is idyllic to explore by boat. (The house has its own mooring with a boat on call. River fish, crabs and prawns are available fresh daily from the local fishermen’s catch.)

The Kirinda suite is at ground floor level and part of the main house but is hidden by a garden within a garden. Entrance is through this private walled garden which has a lotus pond, a small lawn and a verandah where planter’s chairs (the ones with extendable arms) are ideal for relaxing.

The verandah leads to an enormous bedroom that, in contrast to the brightness of the tropic sunlight outside, is subdued in décor with sombre colours. Crimson coloured walls (even the plugs are painted crimson), plump beige cushions on an art deco settee, a dark motif counterpane, teak chests and antique wicker baskets, add a period touch.

Private garden: The Kirinda Suite’s relaxed charm

This is followed in the traditional furniture and fittings that give the room an air of Asia, matched by the extraordinary personalised service that one imagines is typical of private bungalow life. This is characterised by Eril, the attendant who always seems to be on hand, whether preparing bed tea in the morning or serving dinner at night.The Kirinda suite even has a sliding panel that opens onto a shelf in the staff quarters where a hand bell can be used instead of having to phone for room service.

Another unusual feature of the rooms at River House are the large, long bathrooms. As well as having access from the bedroom, my bathroom opened onto the secret garden so I could throw open the doors to let the breeze flow through. I could also go straight into the bathroom from the swimming pool. This is located close to the house in its own garden by the riverbank. No shaky chrome ladders here to enter the water, just a granite flight of steps and with an array of brightly striped blue and white pool towels easily to hand.

I abandoned myself to the sheer pleasure of peace at River House, with the only sounds being those of nature: chirping birds, whooping monkeys and chattering cicadas. One of the verandahs of the house is devoted to relaxation with a pair of smart white sofas smothered in cushions. Its twin verandah is set up for dining at any time a guest likes, and has an enticing river view complementing fine food prepared on demand. Meals are taken at separate tables so, even if there are other guests staying there, one is not obliged to interact with them.

River House seems to be designed for guests who want to step back in time, as well as step aside from daily travails, even if only for a few days. But it is not totally isolated; the beach at Balapitiya is not far away, and the owning company of River House, Asia Leisure, is to open a new hotel there. That will add to the pleasure of a holiday; staying in the woodland riverside retreat with a chance to visit the beach for a sea bath too.

The River House, 70 Utthamagna Mawatha, Welagedara, Balapitiya; 091 4382473; theriverhouse@asialeisure.lk; www.asialeisure.lk.

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