Ginger beer line-up
Cyril Rodrigo’s ginger beer
This month I visited a few local spots in Colombo to savour their version of homemade ginger beer. I will share my take on the best three, but first a bit of back story:
I grew up in Canada in an era when one didn’t hear much about ginger beer. I only knew of it because my father would come across a can in some obscure Asian or Indian market and drink it with the greatest of pleasure – it was not a trend or even a popular specialty item back then. When I did endeavour to try it, the bold flavour was too much for my young tastebuds. I stuck with Canada Dry Ginger Ale.
Years later, married and living in the US, I noticed a vendor selling ginger beer at the edge of a local farmers’ market in the summer. This time, the drink with the hushed lemon hue beckoned me – I had to give it another chance, and I finally understood my father’s fancy with this island delight. A nice cold, crisp and spicy ginger beer on a hot day really is as satisfying as it is refreshing.
Now living in Sri Lanka, ginger beer abounds as does the local ginger. There are countless brands of ginger beer in the US today prepared with imported ginger from the world over, but there is nothing quite like drinking a homemade ginger beer prepared with locally grown ginger. Sri Lankan inguru (ginger) distinguishes itself from other varieties for its small rhizomes and strong aromatic flavour (versus the larger rhizomes that have a milder flavour) and white flesh. It is an essential ingredient in savoury Sri Lankan curries, and added to confectioneries and desserts in modest quantity to balance out sweet flavours.
So, what to look for in a fabulous ginger beer? Unfiltered flavour of the juice of ginger; a good balance of hot and sweet, but not overly sweetened; with a little something extra to elevate the mixture (either soda water or citrus, lemon or lime). Sri Lankan ginger is hot, with a pungent taste and leaves a tingle in your stomach. The magic of a tasty ginger beer is in the formula that balances the right amount of ginger juice to water or soda, and simple syrup. Here we go:
My #3 Favourite: Barefoot Garden Café’s Homemade Ginger beer – this version is less sweet, has a bright flavour, with a citrus taste, and a lighter but lingering ginger taste. But not quite gingery enough for my liking.
My #2 Favourite: Klassy Pastry Shop’s Homemade Ginger beer – this version is so homely and sweet, with a strong ginger flavour that comes through. Nice option for preparing cocktails.
My #1 Favourite: Cyril Rodrigo’s Green Cabin Homemade Ginger – this version is refreshing and satisfying with a bite, the strong ginger taste comes through, not overly sweet, warms the stomach in part due to the bubbly (makes a difference) from the addition of soda water versus plain water.
There you have it. I hope I have given you a hankering for a glass… most likely, you can find one just around the corner.
Ruwanmali Samarakoon-Amunugama is the author of Milk, Spice and Curry Leaves;
Hill Country Recipes from the Heart of Sri Lanka.
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