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Of coffee trails and tea-tea-lating tales

By Devanshi Mody

Galadari High Tea: To call this exuberant affair an “English” high tea, as has been, is an exercise in misguided nomenclature. The English tapering three-tiered platter of finger sandwiches, scones and cake splatter into a sprawled profusion, the enumeration of which would require volumes. There is little that is English about this quintessentially Sri Lankan feast. However, on technical punctilio, one thing is correct: this is veritably a high tea (because, traditionally, high tea includes cooked hot items and is a light substitute for supper) as opposed to afternoon tea (the charming affair England is famed for).

But when in Lanka do as the Lankans do. Therefore, the Galadari unhinges a culinary carnival which Ananda Warakawa (the hotel’s F&B Manager) claims, no doubt hyperbolically, that he makes a million a week on. But of greater significance is that now his lobby is full of lovely ladies, “It’s about getting in the ladies,” he explains solemnly…

Frothy coffees and milkshakes from Avirate cafe

He wanted to invigorate this “sleepy time” of the afternoon and hasn’t he just. The ladies (and indeed businessmen from the environs) effect high-energy trajectories to Colombo’s most expansive tea time buffet to tower their plates with grilled and open sandwiches made with a choice of about 10 fillings, mini pizzas, kebabs, multifarious patties and puffs (the veggie puffs are exemplary for their fine flakiness), crackers and cheese (such a Sri Lankan tea time favourite), waffles, chocolate fondue etc. Cakes may blaze with florescent hues and the “scones” defy description.

The buffet also rather proudly presents croissants (here with a Turkish topping) although croissants after breakfast would scandalise the French. Oh well, the French have croissants after they wake up in the morning and the Lankans do after they wake up in the afternoon. Manager Sumedha & team offer outstanding service unequalled by their grand counterparts (Hilton Colombo excepted).

The Galadari high tea started as a week-long promotion and has been extended by overwhelming demand, now finally declared a permanent daily operation. Mr. Warakawa will further tea-tea-vate it with fashion shows, cookery demonstrations and celebrity dieticians lecturing on the virtues of abstemiousness- amidst the profusion.

Aviraté: In Sanskrit (sans accent) means sensuality…. But the brand’s logo is imaginatively the Sinhala “Ayyana” letter. If Aviraté’s uber chic boutique has brought home an international flavour, then they are going international with imminent overseas launches. But first, this week the café launches exclusive teas, hitherto reserved for export. Aviraté’s imports include smooth Italian Molinari coffee and Da Vinci chocolate sauce knocked up into iced extravagances like Raté Chocolate Fantasy where ice cream and whipped cream billow over a bed of chocolat rapé and chocolate sauce (somewhat smothering the coffee) whilst Frio Café Chocolaccino is sumptuous with flustered foam and chocolate crumble. I prefer the more austere Frio Cappuccino and Iced Latte which accentuate the coffee’s elegance. Aviraté attenuates decadence, including in White Mocha Hazelnut Latte and Cookies n Cream milkshake, with low fat options.

Explore also the super smoothie repertoire. Marketing Manager Sarinda singles the low fat strawberry and peach Power Smoothie for gym enthusiasts. However, staff (certain members can be morose) confess the exotic Tropical Smoothie with mangoes, bananas, passion fruit and calories aplenty is what grabs most guests.

Of course, associated with fashion, Aviraté’s menu is lean and light (mounds of chocolate fudge cake apart…). Expect selective short eats, sandwiches and cakes, particularly Colombo’s most delicate cupcakes, not repulsively sweet and quite original (tender tiramisu, warm peanut butter, and ravishing red velvet filled with crème brûlé…).

The house speciality is precipitous Rocky Road made by the MD’s wife. Worry not, you’ll burn the calories just worrying about them. Gents, for whom this café was intended to laze in whilst their ladies exhausted eternities at the boutique, are spotted attacking helpless little cupcakes with unabashed glee. Sarinda reveals Aviraté was conceived to entice the elite that fly abroad to shop. Cunning. For with flights of fashion economised, one just splurges more on coffee and cake at Aviraté café!

Sixth Lane Café: Mochalicious Frappés the consistency of a milkshake, stocky chocolate chip cake, chicken and mushroom pies and stuffed buns land you in hospital. But now this is precisely why people go to hospital: to land up at the new sixth floor café at Durdans Hospital. The ambience is clinical but all offerings (Lavazza coffees, smoothies and milkshakes apart) are sourced from a team that apparently bakes through the night until morning when products with a home-cooked ingenuousness are delivered to the café where queues are longer than life itself.

The food is filling rather than fine and vol au vents and quiche are spelled volovan and kish (wittingly or unwittingly). But the venue is massively patronised which sees Mr. Ushara, who is in charge, and his one assistant (they comprise the staff) rushed upon by a humungous charge, despite which they remain undaunted, efficient and agreeable. Perhaps some Colombo 5 Stars should send their staff to hospital for training in hospitality at this modest café.

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