Arts
Reaching for his ideal in fashion
View(s):What was the motivation behind the creation of Colombo Fashion Week?
Ajai Vir Singh at CFW 2007 with Prasad Bidapa (right)
The motivation was driven by the love of fashion and an opportunity to create. I felt other creative industries were doing ok, but hardly producing any fashion to be proud of. These factors got me to ‘think’, and it became the starting point with no light in front.
Who were the initial minds behind the foundation for CFW?
Prasad Bidapa was my first partner at CFW, he was based in India and by then I had been living here 7 years (since 1996). I had friends who were in fashion overseas. After penning some initial thoughts, I bounced these ideas with Prasad. And soon the journey began. Our challenges here were different hence conceptualisation was different. I asked another friend to join me.
What was the initial and current management team of Colombo Fashion Week. When and how did they come aboard?
After Prasad Bidapa, Travice Ondaatjie joined me for a year. Then much, later I invited Dirk Flamer Caldera to join me.That was in 2008-09.
Going back to the very first Colombo Fashion Week in 2003, what were the biggest challenges you faced as a team producing the biggest fashion event that
Sri Lanka had seen at the time.
We had no reference points as the challenges and constraints in Sri Lanka were very different, we couldn’t follow any other fashion week as their formats wouldn’t fit. We created the format that could work for us in this environment. That is what we see today. And this format is now widely used in the region. Along with Travice Ondaatjie we had a bunch of friends who helped us. The very first show was at Galle Face hotel.
Following the inauguration of CFW, when/ what made you realize the potential and impact that such an event would have on the local fashion industry as a whole?
I must say the first four years were quite discouraging. I guess that is what happens, when you are trying something new- it takes more than a few years to settle down. You got to keep pushing. I believe that God was completely with me guiding us in the right direction. 2006-07 was when I realized we were at a tipping point. I remember meeting a young girl working at an apparel company who was nervous about her collection. I don’t think she had done a show before, but today we know her as Darshi Keertisena. Two years later Kanchana came in and by then it became a bit consistent.It was much later that the flood gates opened.
Do you remember the best feedback/ criticism that you have received about CFW over the last 15 years?
Every season comes with its share of feedback and criticism. And every season we learn and we try to better ourselves. I think it was somewhere in 2008 someone told me, “We love to buy Sri Lankan designers now, we are proud of them”. This was easily one of the best pieces of feedback we have received; knowing that we were able to build pride into Sri Lankan fashion labels, which was not there before.
Every year, CFW expands its boundaries and explores other domains of art and culture from Art Connect, Fashion + Food, Fashion Films, etc. Is there a field CFW hasn’t explored yet that you personally would like to one day integrate into CFW?
I believe if you look at the core of any creative industry or stream, the origin is the same, just the expression is different. I love collaborating with other creative streams, it builds everyone up. This year we added something I always wanted to -Music. You will see Music Designed. Bringing all the creative streams together creates such an atmosphere in any city. It’s for all to enjoy. We are working with five young musicians, Sooriya Village and Hit Factory.
CFW has also been showcased in different locations. Which location was your favourite?
Negombo Lagoon, Galle Fort Street. Well, I loved the Rampart as well. And Colombo Port too!
Since its inception, CFW has found ome of Sri Lanka’s and South Asia’s best designers flocking together to present their collections on this ramp. What has been the most memorable designer/collection you have seen so far?
It will be really hard to pick one up, but I love the depth and yet the simplicity of Bibi Russell. Each collection of hers carries the weight of development, so you can’t just see that as a collection. Then Rizwan Beyg’s Truck Art, Abraham and Thakore, Samant Chauhan are a few other favourites.
You recently travelled to England for the Fashion Exchange project as a reappointed member of the Commonwealth Fashion Council. What lessons and ideas did you bring back with you from the trip? Did it change or enhance your vision for the local industry and if so, how?
Firstly the opportunity to exchange designers, expose them to more markets. I have understood a direction, and if we follow that, we can make a mark internationally. We are ahead with a few things. Yes definitely, it gave me a perspective to focus on for the benefit of the local industry.
When you look back at 15 years of CFW which has grown and expanded as a brand, what do you think has been the backbone for its success?
We have stayed focused on developing design sensibility and point of view among the younger generation. We understood the challenges and we have spent time through development programmes to sharpen them. We kept on evolving our design development programmes to keep them relevant and current. Done at fashion schools, university and Project 7 programmes continue enhancing the younger designers. I spend close to six-seven months on this every year. I am happy with the results that follow.
What inspired you to expand the brand to include CFW Swim in 2015? Did the success and experience that came with producing the CFW shows make Swim easier to coordinate or did you’ll face different challenges in this new territory of fashion?
Swim has a different focus; it actually is a combination of resort wear and beachwear. It showcases our strength of design, manufacturing and the environment. Yes the experience of CFW helped me to define a new focus.
Looking back over 15 years of CFW, what do you define as your proudest moment for the brand?
90% of Sri Lankan Designer labels (involving a fashion designer) that you see or know are a product of CFW’s design development system. We were able to build pride into Sri Lankan fashion and create a Fashion Week brand in our country which everyone can be proud of.
When CFW was first launched, did you envision that it would traverse from being a main fashion event to revolu tionising the fashion industry and mind set with initiatives such as the Responsible Fashion Movement, the Bright Sparks shows, Ethical Fashion Day, etc.
No, not at the start. I was driven to create an image and an identity for Sri Lanka’s fashion design industry. Everything is a grace, God has opened for me as we kept going.
What is your vision for an ‘ideal’ fashion industry?
A happy Industry that empowers society, enhances the environment, works with craft communities, is responsible and commercially successful to include more livelihoods and keeps impacting everything it touches positively.
| HSBC CFW @15 | |
| As HSBC Colombo Fashion Week (CFW) ends today marking a proud milestone of 15 years, Purnima Pilapitiya had 15 questions for its Founder and President Ajai Vir Singh on the twists, challenges of the journey and his vision and passion for uplifting the Sri Lankan textile industry. |