Homestay that conjures up paradise on earth
Time for breakfast overlooking the mountains
“Homestay” is a scheme introduced by Sri Lankan Tourism with the declared intention of encouraging “local residents to open their homes to paying guests enabling tourists to live in a homely environment and to experience local customs and traditions.” In other words, it’s a contemporary branding of the good, old fashioned hospitality concept of “bed & breakfast.”
Its noble aim is “to give opportunity to the tourist to experience Sri Lankan way of life.” For the tourist, though, the main reason for choosing a homestay holiday here is because it’s cheap. Recently, however, I discovered a brand new homestay residence that goes beyond basic budget accommodation for the backpacker into the realm of elegance providing a rural retreat for the sophisticated traveller.
The Bungalow at Makuludola Estate is newly built to fulfil the overseas-based Sri Lankan owner’s desire to recreate the lavish comfort and gracious hospitality of a plantation home of the last century. It has been designed by the acclaimed Sri Lankan architect, C. Anjalendran, and reflects his signature modernism and precision, fused with traditional furniture and fittings. It has been created as a plantation residence with rooms for discerning guests who seek a homestay in an inspiring atmosphere of tranquil beauty.
The Bungalow is not in the hill country, but is surrounded by lush, forested hills where the temperature drops at night, and has views that seem to stretch for ever. Instead of the ennui of endless vistas of close-cropped tea bushes, there is the calm of cinnamon leaves rippling in the breeze and the pleasure of rambling along estate paths shaded by tall rubber trees. As The Bungalow faces south, the paddy fields below it glisten when the sun crests the eastern hills and its infinity swimming pool glints as the sun sets, creating the mood for sun-downers on the broad, granite-paved verandah.
At night, the Dondra Lighthouse in the distance brightens the sky while houses in the surrounding forest twinkle like low-lying stars. The Bungalow is a secret, hidden at the end of a private estate road (no intrusions by the public to disturb the serenity) near Telijjawila, just 20 minutes by vehicle from the Matara exit of the Southern Expressway. To stay there is to find perfect seclusion and yet to be near the south coast and less than two hours drive from Colombo.
The private estate road forks on the left to the centre of the plantation, where the original bungalow was built when the great grandmother of the present owner acquired the property in 1906. Above the right fork there is a tantalising glimpse of the new bungalow perched on a ledge with its metal roof soaring skywards before it vanishes behind the cinnamon. The last few yards of the drive are steep, but the road is paved.
The courtyard entrance is unprepossessing; all you can see is a sombre granite-faced building flanked by copper drain pipes. A bell hangs at the entrance to a granite staircase; it tolled loudly at my touch and, since there was no door, I climbed up the steps. At the top, standing at the edge of the verandah, I was out of breath. Not because of the climb, but because of the breath-taking view; first of the enticing swimming pool that seemed to flow over the edge into the valley below, and then of the panorama of forest and hills. Peacocks mewled, lizards scurried, and a kingfisher swooped to sip from the pool. It was like stepping into a natural paradise conjured up by Walt Disney.
The Indian swing on the back verandah
The owner’s wife greeted us at the verandah and urged us to relax and enjoy the view while we were welcomed with glasses of fresh melon juice.The verandah runs the width of the house, with the owner’s suite walled off at the eastern side. The kitchen is poised above the entrance steps so it’s easy to see who’s coming and going. Guests enter through the lounge with plump armchairs and sofas, and a magnificent screen shielding the dining area where a solid mara wood slab is a table that seats twelve.
The bedrooms (and a library) lead off the central grass courtyard, with a back verandah defined by an ancient Indian swing and enclosed by wrought iron sliding gates. The three bedrooms have attached bathrooms and televisions with the severity of brushed concrete floors and concrete beams being muted by the timber roof, teak furnishings and antique almirahs. The interior of the bungalow is spacious and, with its unusual features, a veritable work of art.
After a comfortable night’s rest I was woken by birds tap-tapping on the windowpane. I swam as the sun rose and then joined the owner, his wife and daughter on their private verandah for a full Sri Lankan breakfast, topped off with a superb double espresso from their own Italian coffee machine. This was my first experience of a homestay and, since The Bungalow has all the accoutrements of a luxury boutique property enhanced with charming company, I foresee it will become very popular with visitors of good taste.
The Bungalow, Makuludola Estate A Division, Dampella, Telijjawila;makuludolabungalow@gmail.com.