ISSN: 1391 - 0531
Sunday September 30, 2007
Vol. 42 - No 18
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Stroll through Sevilla

For over two thousand years, the Spanish city of Sevilla has stretched along the banks of the Guadalquivir at the foot of the Campiña hills, dominating plains crisscrossed by rivers which flow down from the surrounding sierras. Nowadays it is a busy capital with much to delight art-lovers, food-lovers and night owls beyond its modern neighbourhoods and wide, congested avenues.

Barrio Santa Cruz: Showcase of Sevilla’s medieval past

Stroll through the network of little streets in the city centre dotted with small shaded squares, and see the splendid palaces and church treasures. There you can get a taste of the city’s refined lifestyle in the cool, fragrant gardens and enjoy a tapas snack. Discover Sevilla in its suit of lights and the hidden city that awakens while the sun sleeps.

The Cathedral and the Giralda

Two-hour visit.

This is the largest Gothic cathedral in Spain. Its early 15C builders decided to surprise the world by erecting it over the former Almohade Great Mosque, which until then had only been adapted to Christian rituals. Built over an entire century, this huge stone vessel opens through eight doors which, although from different eras, do not destroy the unity of the whole with its early Renaissance elements.

A few steps away stands the Giralda, the true symbol of Sevilla. This former minaret is a masterpiece of Alomohade architecture. The understated decor and materials are a sign of the austere aesthetics of the Almohades, who broke away completely with the luxuriant decorative art of the Cordoba califate.

Two-hour visit.
The royal palace of Sevilla, built over an Arab fortress, provides an extraordinary summary of Sevilla’s architectural history. The Palacio del Rey Don Pedro (Palace of King Pedro I) is a magnificent expression of the Mudejar style. The gardens have unfortunately gone from the patios, replaced by marble paving, but they now cover 80% of the area south of the palatial complex.

Tourist Office: Oficina municipal de turismo, Paseo de las Delicias, 9

41012 Sevilla – Tel: 00 34 954 234 465 – Mon.-Fri. 8.20am-8.45pm, Sat.-Sun. 9 a.m.-2 p.m.

Sevilla’s two great monuments, the cathedral and the Alcázar, lie within a tiny perimeter around the Plaza del Triunfo. The Santa Cruz quarter is not far, and we recommend visiting it on foot. There are many restaurants around the cathedral where you can have lunch.

Visit this quarter early in the morning as it is sliding into the day, before the tourist groups arrive. Lined on the south by the gardens of the Alcázar, the Barrio de Santa Cruz stretches East from the central area to Santa María la Blanca church. This is the quarter of Sevilla which has best preserved its medieval aspect. Its network of alleys and narrow winding streets suddenly opens onto pretty little squares with benches covered in azulejos tiles, shaded by orange trees.

The true symbol of Sevilla: La Giralda

The Casa de Pilatos, one of Sevilla’s architectural wonders, built over several decades in the late 15C and early 16C, is predominantly mudejar. The two gardens are cool havens of peace and quiet. Linger a while in the large garden bathed in the scent of orange trees, bougainvilleas and roses, with Italian loggias housing Renaissance sculptures.

Sevilla’s Fine Arts Museum has exhibited its collections in the former Convento de la Merced since 1841. The convent, built in the 17C under the direction of Juan de Oviedo, is one of the attractions of the museum, which provides a panorama of Sevillian painting from the 15C to the 20C. A pleasant square with a statue of Murillo lines the entrance to the museum topped by a Baroque gate.

In this town that is passionate about its celebrations, your Andalusian nights will be as fine as your days.

Flamenco Evenings

Flamenco is the eternal symbol of Andalusia and, fortunately, is not limited to exaggerated performances designed for tourists. In Sevilla, flamenco has remained a tradition that is very much alive. Flamenco bars, which offer concerts on certain days of the week, are the main places to go in search of its heart and soul.

Theatre and Opera

Sevilla is also a city of amorous passion where Don Juan, Figaro and Carmen lived out their romantic destinies. Why not take advantage of the city’s wealth of cultural events by attending the theatre or the opera? The Teatro de la Maestrenza holds numerous concerts and performances.

Contemporary composers are featured along with zarzuelas, a form of operetta blending musical theatre and dance which experienced a golden age in the 19C. Finish off the evening in one of the city’s chic bars in the Arenal quarter (Garlochi, Calle Boteros n°26, Bar Bestiario, Calle Zaragoza).

 
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