A degustation not to be missed
Chicken liver pate with prawn and mango pssion dressing. Pix by Indika Handuwala
A degustation is an opportunity for chefs to display their many skills in cooking, plating and pairing ingredients because it is as much a spectacle as it is a meal. Degustations usually serve up multiple courses of haute cuisine in small portions so that every aspect of each dish can be appreciated. This particular degustation at Jetwing Colombo 7’s ‘Fifty 7’ restaurant serves seven courses -six savoury options (vegetarian and non-vegetarian) and one dessert paired with two glasses of wine. Managing Director of Jetwing Colombo Seven Ramesh Costa regards the menu as an eclectic fusion of fresh flavours which has been sourced as locally as is possible. The menu has been designed by executive chef Indika Bandara.
This is definitely an experience you should try if you have at least two and a half hours to spare - the dishes are served leisurely so that they can be enjoyed to the fullest.
Smoked lamb saddle on a bed of risotto
The first dish on the menu was the chicken liver pâté, served with small segments of prawns and a mango passion dressing, accompanied with tiny slices of crisp toast to spread the pâté on. While most Sri Lankans aren’t fans of pâté, the richness of the pâté (which melts in your mouth) contrasted well with the crisp toast and the prawn segments made for a nice, chewy mouthful. This was a light, comforting start to the meal. Vegetarians have the option of grilled vegetable terrine in place of this dish.
When faced with a big slice of tomato on a bed of greenish brown avocado with ‘cream’ on top, most people would not be too excited. Here again we learned looks can be deceiving. ‘Burrata Espuma’, burrata is a type of Italian cheese made by mixing mozzarella and cream (the ‘cream’ on top of the tomato). The dish was very flavourful – and had a taste of Italian herbs which was quite appealing.
Executive chef Indika Bandara
Next came a dish covered with a tiny bowl which was opened once in front of the diners, releasing a tiny spiral of distinctly grey smoke – the smoked lamb saddle on a bed of risotto. Anyone familiar with risotto knows that this is a dish which can either be well done or go disastrously wrong. Luckily for us, this dish was done well, the distinctly smoky taste of the lamb contrasting well with the creamy texture of the risotto. The cherry tomato tart with watercress salad served as the vegetarian option for this dish.
Continuing the warm feeling of the previous dish was the spicy chicken consommé, served with a dumpling and a quail egg. This was presented beautifully with a jug of consommé (a type of clear soup) being poured over the dumpling and quail egg at the table. Vegetarians could order the sweet potato bisque with vegetable dim sum in place of the spicy chicken consommé.
In between the consommé and the next dish serving as a palate cleanser and echoing a mojito came a refreshing lemon and mint sorbet.
The Asian sea bass fillet was presented beautifully with bright sauces spread artfully on the plate. Asparagus risotto was served in place of the sea bass for vegetarians.
The deconstructed mango crumble
Finally it was time for the Australian beef rib eye – a dish anticipated by many. The dish was presented well with the beef accompanied by soft potato which looked like it had been made into what seemed like a flaky potato pastry (known as a rosemary potato tart) which complemented the beef well. The octopus which accompanied the beef also served as a soft treat. The smoked eggplant gratin was offered in place of the rib eye.
The deconstructed mango crumble served for dessert was colourful treat. On a deep red bed of raspberry vinegar were bite- sized chunks of mango served with tiny meringue kisses, basil ice cream and mascarpone (which tasted like a crispy, slightly chewy wafer). The ice cream was beautifully soft and had a perfect ‘melt in your mouth’ texture, while the crumble was hard and chewy. There was also an option of fresh fruits for dessert.
The degustation menu available on Sunday from 12.30 pm to 3 p.m. is priced at Rs. 5700 (nett) per person and 4700 (nett) for vegetarians.