The most venerated mountain by generations past and generations to come
View(s):Sri Pada – Holy Footprint –to Buddhists and Adam’s Peak to others is perhaps the most venerated mountain in the world. The annual pilgrim season which began on Unduwap Full Moon Poya –December 13, reaches its climax with Medin Poya today.
As mentioned in the Mahvamsa, during the third visit of the Buddha to Sri Lanka when he visited Kelaniya (519/520 BC) he was invited by God Sumanasaman to visit Samantakuta. He obliged and during his visit placed an imprint of his left footprint on a slab of rock. Sumanasaman – referred to as Saman Deviyo – is the guardian deity of Samanala Kanda venerated by the pilgrims who seek his protection during the pilgrimage.
I remember climbing Sri Pada as a boy. We took the route through Hatton which is considered the shortest. The trail started from Nallathanni on an estate road. The climb starts gradually and there are spots to rest on the way.Reaching ‘Seetha Gangula’ most pilgrims take a dip in the ice cold water in the stream flowing by while others prefer to wash their faces and change into white clothes.
The climb becomes steep but with the crowds chanting ‘Karunavai, karunavai – Vandinta yana me nadeta Sumana Saman devi pihitai’ blessing those going up and the others responding ‘Karunavai, karunavai – Negala bahina me nadeta Sumana Saman devi pihitai’, the mood is relaxing. You also begin to admire the greenery around you.
Reaching ‘Indikatu pahana’ you see reams of white thread with pins thrown by the pilgrims following tradition, hanging among the bushes. The steepest climb referred to as ‘Mahagiri dambe’ as you near the peak begins thereafter. Braving the cold and the winds you reach the peak where pilgrims all around are heard chanting ‘Sadhu, Sadhu’. You kneel down and worship the slab of rock with the Holy Footprint and ring the bell indicating the number of times you have visited Sri Pada. If you are a ‘kodu-karaya’ – first timer –you ring just once.
In the ‘Footprint of the Buddha’, Professor E.F.C. Ludowyk writes: “On the slab of rock is the rough indentation of the outline of a foot, somewhat sunk on the stone and regularized by a cemented rim giving it the conventional shape of the mango in Indian design. Its length has been computed at five feet seven inches, and its breadth at two feet seven inches at the ball of the foot.”
After worshipping, you begin to look round and enjoy the scenery. As Sir Emerson Tennent has written, “No other mountain presents the same unobstructed view over land and sea. Around it to the north and east the traveller looks down on the zone of lofty hills that encircle the Kandyan kingdom, whilst to the westward the eye is carried far over undulated plains, threaded by rivers like cords of silver, till in the purple distance the glitter of the sunbeams on the sea marks the line of the Indian Ocean.”
Most pilgrims climb in the night to reach the summit by dawn to watch the ‘Ira Sevaya’ as the sun begins to appear through the clouds and the shadow of the peak presents a marvellous sight. “The first faint beams reveal the fleecy shroud of mist covering the world below and as the welling light grows clearer up rises the mighty shadow. Like a distant pyramid it stands for many seconds; then nearer and nearer, never increasing in size and distinctness as the rays of light broaden over the horizon, it advances towards us like a veil, through which the distant mountain forests and plains are distinctly visible, till at length it seems to merge its mighty parent, and instantly vanish,” writes Henry W Cave in ‘Ceylon along the Rail Track’.
A holy peak which has attracted pilgrims of several faiths as far back as 11th century continues to be one of the most venerated places of worship.
- D. C. Ranatunga