ISSN: 1391 - 0531
Sunday, April 29, 2007
Vol. 41 - No 48
Plus

Charming exclusivity hidden amidst the vegetation

By Royston Ellis. Photos by Gemunu Amarasinghe

Kahanda Kanda, set in a tea plantation near Galle, has been featured in glossy international magazines. A photograph of it forms the cover of ‘Sri Lanka Style’ by Channa Daswatte and Dominic Sansoni. It is the most amazing boutique hotel in Sri Lanka, yet only a handful of Sri Lankans have stayed there.

That's because it has been a hotel for only a few months, has never been reviewed in the local press, and is off the beaten track. Driving for nine kilometres along the A17 road to Akuressa and then turning down a lane opposite a bitumen-making plant for another three kilometres, it's easy to wonder why anyone should build a hotel in such an out-of-the way place.

View of the pool.

Even on arrival at the unmarked gate lodge and being asked to wait while permission is obtained to proceed further, there is still no clue about the irresistible exuberance of this unique property. That comes after a short drive up a cobbled lane to park below an outrageous saffron coloured wall that soars out of the vegetation above a flight of granite steps.

Outrageous? Well it's such a contrast to the verdure of the surroundings. Any other colour would have been vulgar, but this reflection of the traditional shade of a monk's robe sets a tone of style and substance. The only other bold colour is a puce wall from which water gushes into the infinity edged pool with its dark green polished cement sides. The rest of the palette is nature's own, aided by carpets of green tea bushes fringing the guest pavilions.

Kahanda Kanda sits atop a bluff with the saffron wall dividing the views: on one side the Koggala Lake glimmers dreamily in the valley while neighbouring hills are framed by the glassless openings puncturing the wall's length. It's spaciousness that defines this villa resort, as well an ambience that would enchant the most fastidious guests, whether international celebrities or discerning Sri Lankans.

Access is by the granite steps to a long path that leads past pavilions and pools to the other side of the property. There, on the foundations of the original tea planter's bungalow, is a villa with two bedrooms (and two outside garden showers) suitable for friends or a family. It overlooks the orchid nursery and organic vegetable garden. The original bungalow was the core of the 12-acre plantation that George Cooper, in search of his roots, bought in 2000. Cooper's maternal grandfather was a tea planter in colonial Ceylon and, when he saw the property "it spoke to me," he says.

Tea room bathroom

His spontaneous purchase of the estate resulted in him commissioning architect Bruce Fell-Smith to build a home for him there. As an interior designer himself, Cooper was keen to have several open-sided pavilions that revealed the staggering views. He designed the furniture and had it made by local carpenters and cabinetmakers. Black and white batik hangings by Ena de Silva, fabrics and knick-knacks from Paradise Road and lamps by Sri Lanka based Swiss designer Rico Tarawella add excitement to the interiors.

As well as the two suites that form the bungalow villa, there are three vast, separately located guest pavilions. The most spectacular, with two open-air bathrooms for its two guests, is called The Peacock Suite. With a high timber and tile roof and wooden doors and shutters opening to nature, it is refreshingly uncluttered.

Two other detached guest pavilions are hidden behind the saffron wall, and they are a tad more conventional in having inside bathrooms. All the five guest chambers are air-conditioned and have fans, wooden toilet seats, and enviable character.

One of the bedrooms

Alongside twin lily ponds are twin pavilions. One is a large living room, partially enclosed with walls and grid-patterned window openings that allow air to enter and circulate. The other, open on all sides, is the dining pavilion. Meals can be taken poolside too, or in the guest pavilions.

Because of its ingenious layout, guests' privacy is assured, although Kahanda Kanda is open for lunch and dinner, by advance reservation, to non-residents. The set menus are as delectable as the property, with a choice of three starters, three main courses and three desserts. The cuisine has a fusion accent, using locally grown herbs and vegetables, concentrating on a healthy and balanced diet. For physical wellbeing there is a slim gym with tea views, and satellite TV.

Surprisingly for a place of such sophistication, staying in style at Kahanda Kanda costs less than a top Colombo or beach hotel that has none of its charming exclusivity. (www.kahandakanda.com)

 
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Copyright 2007 Wijeya Newspapers Ltd.Colombo. Sri Lanka.