Retracing memories of a bygone climb

It was a dream come true climbing Sri Pada (Adam's Peak) at three score and ten plus. There were five of us women, the youngest in her thirties, and the rest in between. I had planned to climb Adam's Peak all by myself and there were many lifted eyebrows and shaking of heads, but I pretended not to see them.

Getting closer to the day I had set for myself I found one or two others wanting to join me. That was good, the more the merrier.

Did our forefathers know the power of positive thinking? A long time ago to climb Sri Pada was a once in a lifetime experience. It was told that the person who wanted to go on this pilgrimage had to be well prepared both physically and mentally. Some even wrote their last will.

The road was treacherous and quite dark, so they learnt to encourage each other. The language used was always to encourage, they sang 'kavis' and 'gatha'. They sang of the way they were going to worship this sacred footprint. 'Dooth mudunela wandimu', ' perali perali wandimu'.

Those descending encouraged those who were going up, and those ascending blessed those who were coming down. Even the heavy bag that one carried (and it would have been heavy in those bygone days when there were no convenient kiosks!) were referred to as 'sahalluwa', meaning that it was light weight.

The whole village greeted the returning pilgrim. Each household brought, 'unu kavun', hot oil cakes, to foment the feet of the pilgrim. So the whole village participated in the pinkama.

When I was a little girl my mother took me on this pilgrimage. Happily I had walked away not knowing that I was missed and that my mother was looking for me. I still see the smile of relief on her face when she found me. So many years later I was able to spot the place where I was 'found'. Throughout this climb I felt my mother's presence. Our climb was quite slow, we rested on every bench, and refreshed ourselves at every kiosk!! What we found strange was the number of young people who found the climb down difficult. They were exhausted. Thanks to the jars of Siddalepa we had we were able to give the young ones some kind of first aid.

Our challenge was the Mahagiridambe. It is an almost perpendicular climb, but fortunately, there are well built steps with three strong railings with instructions that those climbing up must keep to the right. Our forefathers I am told had to cling on to swinging chains!! This part of the climb will always remain in my mind’s eye. It was a clear crisp pre-dawn, the waning moon hung so beautifully, I felt that I could reach out and touch it. Then we climbed to the top. Premalatha and I sat on the steps as the dawn broke. The sky was streaked with reds and golds, we sat praying , that the mist would not rise. In the distance we saw tiny red dots round a low cloud, and then with the drumbeat for the 'ira sevaya' the dawn broke in all its glory. It was such a marvellous sight, words fail me. I thank God for allowing me to be a part of that glorious dawn. On the western side was the conical shadow of this magnificent mountain.

Our return journey was not eventful except that we were tired. My left leg refused to obey me. With the help of an improvised walking stick given to me by one of the Siddalepa workers I climbed down.

The Siddalepa outlet almost at the beginning of the climb was helpful. But I suggest that they have more workers and more such stations throughout the climb, who could massage the legs of pilgrims climbing down. The little dab of Siddalepa on one’s forehead on the way up is alright, but they could do better. I was told that one Japanese lady had to be carried down 'piggy back' all the way from Indikatupahana.

There should also be good toilets throughout the way. The stench of urine mars the whole pilgrimage.

Preethi, Mala, Mary and Premalatha who took a leap of faith to climb with me I thank you. I thank Manelle, Ananda and Sitha for joining us and keeping us in good spirits all the way to Nallathanni and back.

By Sujatha Wickramasinghe Samarajiwa