Medin full moon Poya falls on March 28
"Karunavai! Karunavai!" The chant goes on and on as thousands of devotees trudge to the holy peak of Sri Pada - one of the most venerated places of worship for Buddhists. It is one of the sixteen places hallowed by Lord Buddha during His third visit to Sri Lanka.
Sri Pada is more sacred to the Buddhists than many other places as the Buddha left His footprint there. The journey to the peak is tedious, thus the pilgrim's devotion is enhanced.
Sri Pada also known as Samanala Kanda (hill of Saman deity to some and to others, mountain of the butterflies where vast numbers of yellow butterflies converge at a particular season), is 2243 metres high. It is Sri Lanka's fifth tallest mountain.
Medin Poya, the full moon Poya in March marks the climax of the Sri Pada season, which generally begins with Unduvap Poya in December.
Pilgrims from at least three routes converge on the peak. The traditional routes are through Ratnapura, Kuruwita and Hatton. The Ratnapura route is through Carney Estate and involves ten miles on foot.
The Kuruwita route where one has to walk 12 miles, meets the Ratnapura route for the last three miles and is considered the most scenic. Most pilgrims prefer the third route via Hatton where the walk is limited to four miles, nearly all of it uphill.
Once you start the climb, you are in God Saman's territory. Hence, devotees make it a point to respect him at every turn. To encourage those who are going up, the ones coming down keep chanting 'Vandinta Yana Me Nadeta - Sumana Saman Devi Pihitai' . The ones climbing reply 'Vendala Bahina Me Nadeta - Sumana Saman Devi Pihitai' .
The young men prefer to add a more personal touch - {xe "Vandinta Yana Me Nangita"}Vandinta Yana Me Nangita and the young female would reply - Vendala Bahina Me Aiyata - all in good fun. Such chanting also makes the journey less tiring for everyone.
The pilgrimage to Sri Pada is a special one. It's done with much 'Saddha' (devotion). Pilgrims abstain from eating meat and fish at least a week prior to the journey, to 'purify' themselves.
The pious villager generally makes the trip in a group - 'the nade'. A seasoned pilgrim leads the group as the 'nade gura'. From the time they start, his word is law. Everyone has to obey him.
When the group reaches the starting point everyone would be tired after the journey. A dip in cool water refreshes you. The favourite spot for the dip is Seeta Gangula, where there is a constant flow of icy cold water. Usually everyone changes into white clothes after the bath.
A common sight midway through the climb is the large amount of white thread tied along the route. The start is at Indikatupana (place of the needle) from where the first-timers are expected to use thread and needle and sew. Many are the customs followed for this ritual. Some tie the needle and one end of the thread in one spot and take the other end of the thread right up. The Southerners follow a strict ritual where the first-timer's eyes are closed with a white cloth and thereafter he has to climb following the leader's instructions.
The steepest climb is from Maha Giri Dambe and Ahas Gauwa. In the old days, chains were used for this climb. Now steps have been cut making the climb easy.
The pilgrim reaches the 'Pahatha Maluwa' or 'Yata Maluwa' first and then the peak or 'Uda Maluwa'. The 'Budu Ge' with the sacred footprint and the Saman Devale are both in the 'Uda Maluwa'. The footprint is covered with a stone slab and it is customary for each devotee to worship here, placing his forehead on the slab.
Very often the pilgrims prefer to start the climb in late evening so that they reach the summit early in the morning in time to see the sunrise, which is a remarkable sight.
- D.C Ranatunga
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