A little cafe that’s the cat’s meow
Driving down Wijerama Mawatha Road, smack between Rosmead Place and Ward Place, an inconspicuous sign will flash as you go by, “The Black Cat.” Intriguing enough to catch one’s eye, yet subtle enough to seem to say, “come in… if you like.”
Walking onto the property and gravelly drive, a colonial home awaits. The Black Cat Café and Stay is unpretentious with its vintage design, and antique books, décor and furnishings—a refreshing contrast to what one would expect to find in an upscale neighbourhood. At first glance its interior reminds me of some of my favourite local spots in Vancouver, B.C., (yes, I am still in withdrawal after my move to Sri Lanka almost one year ago), but I digress. What returns me from my wandering thoughts are the aromatic smell of a good cup of coffee, and friendly staff behind a buzzing coffee machine.
Savouring Serendipity
Eager to try Black Cat fare I meow for a menu. I am presented with a bright yellow menu card attached to a clipboard that reads, “Good Morning Babe,” and I am satisfied with my decision to go with breakfast. This, their latest morning menu, boasts of local foods and herbs, handmade items, and honest ingredients such as: wild bees’ honey, buffalo curd, seasonal fruits, hand rolled cheeses and house made breads. I am drawn to an item called, “Grandpa in the Garden.” Since I never actually met my own grandfathers, but heard numerous stories of both having occupations in farming and agriculture, I go with it.
After sipping what is probably one of the best Americanos I have enjoyed in Sri Lanka since I came, I am presented with an assortment of what looks like a country brunch: house made breads, hand rolled cheeses coated in spices or herbs, a kithul stout mustard, bees’ honey, local whipped butter, artisanal cheeses, passion fruit sago (I mean, come on!) and hand-crafted pickles. This is most definitely grandpa’s tropical garden on a plate: a delicious balance of sweet and sour flavours, and crunchy and soft textures. But what really takes me home (and by this I mean what returns me to my childhood and my mother’s kitchen wherever that happened to be geographically) is the house-made orange marmalade. Finely sliced pieces of orange preserved in a syrup that has the most beautiful bright flavour. A perfect gourmet accompaniment to round out a nourishing offering. I don’t imagine the grandpa who inspired this platter to be a grumpy one; rather one who could spend the whole afternoon in his garden enjoying the fruits of his labour.
I have to ask the gentleman serving me more about the roots of this café, and he tells me about how it is truly a neighbourhood café with regular customers that frequent sometimes a couple of times a day. Its philosophy heeds and champions local farmers, pure unhindered ingredients, quality local produce, dairy and seafood, and upholds hospitality. “The chef personally shops the produce we use from local markets.”
The café itself has stood the test of resiliency; established in 2015 it has managed to keep its doors open through the 2019 Easter bombings, the COVID global pandemic, and most recently Sri Lanka’s financial crisis. Not easy for any business let alone a café, and yet he speaks about a dedicated staff committed to a high standard of hospitality. As well as the company’s passion for and appreciation of Sri Lanka’s natural bounty and farms that continually inspire their outstanding menu. “Food roots us to the place we are in, it connects us to the land we live on.”
I couldn’t agree more. And now, I must in true kitty style, connect myself with a nice fluffy pillow for a well-earned nap.
Ruwanmali Samarakoon-Amunugama is the author of Milk, Spice and Curry Leaves; Hill Country Recipes from the Heart of Sri Lanka. Born in Mississauga, Ontario, she has lived in Canada and the US, and now resides in Colombo, Sri Lanka where she enjoys preparing the fanciest finger foods for her two fussy littles, and ever famished husband.
Connect with her on IG @ruwanmalisamarakoon
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