Financial Times

Passing on his skills to the younger generation
A sole for every soul at Sunil’s
By Randima Attygalle
“Today, much of what they do is done as always has been for the last quarter century, by hand. What really keeps them continuing is not only their masterful skill but also the strong belief that every shoe has a soul…,” are the words stamped on a petite memento one takes home with every pair of special shoes.

This vision of Sunil Samaratunga, brain child of ‘Sunil’- a brand name parallel to none in the art of hand-made genuine leather shoe making in Sri Lanka -- is mirrored in every heel and every sole which is tastefully crafted at Sunil’s leather gallery down Galle Road in Colpetty.

A man for whom a shoe is more than a ‘top and a bottom fixed together’, this less ‘exposed’ yet much heard of unassuming giant in the field, Samaratunga believes that a shoe is a reflective image of one’s personality. “I’ve always been a leather man and never synthetic. I chose leather for the simple reason that it has life. We don’t breathe just from our nostrils and mouth but through skin. Leather is skin and it breathes and has a life of its own,” says Samaratunga encapsulating the essence of his craft true to his dictum, “A sole for every soul.”

At a time when most of his contemporaries opted for the ‘machine made’ shoe industry, and ‘leather lovers’, especially those who have had a ‘taste of the West’ were frustrated due to the dearth of quality hand-made shoes, Samaratunga moved on to expand his horizons in this specialized field which he believes to be ‘an art.’

“For me, shoe-making is not an industry but an art although I find my bread and butter out of it,” says Samaratunga who is a strong advocate of natural creativity blend with power of observation. “I had the rare luxury of observing and working with real shoe-makers who are of Portuguese descent at a shoe shop in Fort where I had my humble beginnings in the late 1960s,” he recalls. With a thirst to learn the ‘secrets’ of the craft, the young and enterprising Samaratunga eagerly observed the veterans beating leather and making tops creating master pieces devoid of any machinery.

Richer with ideas and fundamental skills of shoe-making, yet with a Spartan pocket, Samaratunga moved out on his own in early 1971 to establish a name for himself. “With Rs. 35 in hand, I purchased a hide of leather and made belts, my maiden product for ‘Withit’ opposite Regal Cinema and made Rs. 200,” laughs Samaratunga whose stars were proving to be in his favour as he moved to Colpetty in the mid 70s to open his own workshop with about five skilled craftsmen working under him.

Since then, ‘Sunil’s shoes’ have walked a long way, proving to be a symbol of class, quality and individuality. Talking about the winds of changes witnessed since the inception of ‘Sunil’s’, Samaratunga fondly recalls, “when I ventured out, Beatles, Elvis and bell-bottoms were the most sought-after among the youngsters. It was a time where platform shoes tapped the Coconut Grove at the Galle Face Hotel.” Thus, from ‘Beatle- boots’, white boots of Elvis and platform shoes to contemporary designs in vogue, shoes at Sunil’s have survived the test of time. According to Samaratunga, as far as the technology is concerned, they have remained where they’ve always been- doing everything by hand and making Sunil’s products exclusive.

Distinguishing hand-made shoes from machine-made and non-leather, Samaratunga explains, “hand-made genuine leather shoes are more durable and kind on feet. Since leather is natural it ‘breathes’ making the interior of the shoe cooler and devoid of heat.

The crumpled look is also another feature of genuine leather product as it consists of natural fibres.” He further adds that natural leather is ideal for climatic conditions of tropical countries like Sri Lanka, ensuring hygienic feet devoid of skin problems.

Another facet which makes the shoes at Sunil’s more sought-after is, their exclusive ‘leather casing’. “The sole and insole of all my shoes are leather devoid of any artificial sources such as cardboard,” says Samaratunga adding that to extend the life span, every shoe is created on exclusive foot moulds called ‘Lasts’. As to the question, ‘Is Sunil’s and elite synonymous’?, Samaratunga replies, “we have always been patronized by an exclusive cross section of society and as a result I do not cater to the masses because I am a believer of quality and not quantity. With no advertising, the demand for our products has always been more than the supply.”

Knowledgeable customers are always welcome in his shop according to Samaratunga as he sees it as a give and take venture. “I do not believe in thriving on people’s ignorance. I always want to sell a pair of shoes to a customer who appreciates, who knows the true value. Only then can I be contented that my creation is on the right feet,” smiles Samaratunga who admits that he is often inspired by the rich imagination of customers, especially where designing is concerned.

With shoes being the signature article at Sunil’s, anybody who walks through its doors can feast their eyes on an assortment of other hand-made leather goods such as bags, wallets, belts and picture frames. “I enjoy being an inventor, creating whatever that crosses my mind,” says Samaratunga whose creativity has brought back the Roman and Egyptian glory through his ‘chic sandals’ and feminine aesthetic sense through bags which give a fashionable lady a hard choice!

Rich with intra-personal skills, Samaratunga hardly fails to ‘see through’ his customers. “Dealing with customers involves a lot of psychology. It’s no easy job to weave the whims and fancies of a particular individual in to a pair of shoes. To give the best of services, we have to identify what suits their individual profiles,” says Samaratunga who further explains that this is one of the most challenging endeavours.

Talking about the challenges encountered by the craft of hand-made shoes, Samaratunga says, “this is essentially a skilled craft, thus finding skilled labour can be a Herculean task and in addition raw materials pose a challenge.” According to him, local leather being exported in its raw stage creates a shortage in the country. “For instance in countries like India, finished leather products are promoted and it’s time we adopted the same so that at the end of the day, there is a value-added creation.”

A man who believes in shedding fears to succeed in life, Samaratunga is ready to take yet another challenge-opening the doors of a ‘Hand made shoe training centre’ to share his self-taught skills among aspiring shoe makers. “I have taken much from the world and now I owe it. What better way is there to give something back to the world than passing the little bit you know to the young generation,” seem to echo the genuine thoughts of this ‘genuine leather man’….

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