Delhi’s
delights
By Dr. Nihal D. Amerasekera
I have always been fascinated by India with its long history going
back 5000 years to the Mohenjadaro civilisation in the Indus valley.
Her own cultural heritage although strong was influenced by many
countries stretching from Egypt to China.
As
a nation, India’s diversity is tremendous. They must be rightly
proud of their leaders who endured incarceration, humiliation and
death in their struggle for independence from the British.
The Nehru and Indira Gandhi museums in Delhi pay homage to a great
family who have made huge sacrifices over several decades.
Delhi
with a population of 13.8 million is a mass of humanity. First impressions,
though, are unlikely to be good. The cacophony of cars, lorries,
buses, scooters, pedestrians and street vendors is overwhelming.
The beggars, street urchins, stray dogs and cows compete for space
and complete a picture of mayhem. One will notice the pollution,
the crowds, the smell, the noise and the ceaseless hassles long
before one notices its charms. Those who take the trouble to look
deeper into this apparent chaos see the vitality and the dignity
of it all.
The
narrow alleys and the labyrinthine streets of Old Delhi are a remnant
of its Mughal past. The present New Delhi is a British creation.
Although a conglomeration of seven cities it has risen from the
ashes of the invasions and massacres over many centuries.
Delhi is a vast historical site studded with archaeological treasures.
Humayun (1508-1556) ascended the throne in Agra at the age of 23.
He had a tragic and eventful life. Humayun’s tomb is set in
a geometrically arranged garden criss-crossed by numerous water
channels representing paradise. It was built by Humayun’s
Persian wife. Its magnificent architecture and gardens set the pace
for future mausoleums and was the inspiration for the Taj Mahal.
This tomb is evocative, haunting and mesmerising and is a must see
for all travellers.
Lodi
gardens was my refuge from the constant city noise and pollution.
It is a large park of beautifully manicured lawns and colourful
flowers built around the domed tombs of the 14th century rulers.
The park laid in 1936 in the name of Ibrahim Lodi has become a magnet
for young lovers and a running track for yuppies in Reeboks. There
is a mosque that adds to the serenity of the place.
It was November and the winter fog spread over the city like a veil
only to lift with the warmth of the afternoon sunshine. The nights
were cold. Connaught Place is the hub of central government. Delhi’s
glitziest stores, gourmet restaurants and plush bars are found here.
In central Delhi the tree lined streets, lush green gardens and
colonial architecture are quintessentially British. The India Gate
standing proudly in the heart of Delhi is a grim reminder of the
Indian sacrifice in World War I.
The
city is home to some of the finest hotels in the world and their
service is exceptional. From my bedroom window I could see the Lotus
Temple of the Bahai faith designed by the architect of the Sydney
Opera House. It is a window that peers un-intrusively into the lives
of the people of South Delhi. Once again it is hard to reconcile
the sheer opulence of the rich and the utter desperation of the
poor in a world that does not care. The car journeys to Jaipur and
Agra will be a nightmare for those accustomed to orderly driving
in the west.
We
took a day trip to Jaipur and arrived in the walled city about mid-morning.
Rajasthan is home to a number of wonderful tourist sites in India
and Jaipur its capital is a crowded city. Popularly known as the
Pink City it was founded in 1727 by King Sawai Jai Singh I. The
pink colour was used to create an impression of red sandstone. The
people have retained their traditional way of life going back many
centuries selling their arts and crafts in the busy city market.
The
City Palace is the official residence of the royal family who live
in a part of the palace. The rest of the austere building is open
to the public. It has a perfect blend of Rajput and Mughal architecture
with many courtyards.
Amber Fort was built at the end of the 16th century and many tourists
take an elephant ride up the hill to the entrance of the Fort. It
costs more to get off the elephant than to get on. It’s hard
to bargain whilst high up on the animal!! There is also a beautiful
palace built in the middle of a lake called the Summer Palace.
We
made several short journeys in Delhi. A trip to Old Delhi is a must.
In the old city built by Emperor Shah Jahan, the crumbling old gates
and wall are still in evidence. It is a busy vibrant Muslim enclave.
In the main commercial street there are mosques, a church and many
Hindu temples. Old Delhi is a tangle of narrow streets with tiny
clothes shops, bazaars, jewellery stores, sweets shops, and auto
spares. The Red Fort or the Lal Quila is situated on the banks of
the river Yamuna. This sandstone citadel has grand audience halls,
marble palaces and once had its walls studded with precious stones.
History was created here by Jawaharlal Nehru when he unfurled the
Indian flag on August 15, 1947 commemorating the end of the British
colonial rule.
We
arrived in Agra once the capital of India after a gruelling journey
by car. The Taj Mahal stands out despite the squalor and the poverty
of the city, a tribute to beauty itself. Tagore described it as
“a tear drop on the cheek of time”. It was built by
the Mughal Emperor, Shah Jahan in 1631 in memory of his wife, Mumtaz
Mahal. The Taj Mahal took 20,000 people and 1000 elephants 22 years
to build. Designed by the Iranian architect Ustad, material for
its construction came from all over India and central Asia. It is
truly a symbol of eternal love.
The
jewel in-laid tomb lies within the dome of white marble flanked
by four minarets. The Taj which appears pink in the morning, milky
white in the evening and has a golden hue when the moon shines is
said to depict the various moods of a woman. It is one of the eight
wonders of the world and its architectural beauty has never been
surpassed.
Despite
his success in art and architecture in his later life Shah Jahan’s
mind was never at peace. In 1658 his son Auranzeb deposed his father,
killed his brothers and became king. Shah Jahan spent his final
years a prisoner in the octagonal tower of the Agra Fort in full
view of the meandering Yamuna river and his beloved Taj Mahal.
I
have always had a soft spot for this vast country. Its immense appeal
to travellers has been the vigour and beauty of its present and
the richness of its past.
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