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Delhi’s delights
By Dr. Nihal D. Amerasekera
I have always been fascinated by India with its long history going back 5000 years to the Mohenjadaro civilisation in the Indus valley. Her own cultural heritage although strong was influenced by many countries stretching from Egypt to China.

As a nation, India’s diversity is tremendous. They must be rightly proud of their leaders who endured incarceration, humiliation and death in their struggle for independence from the British.

The Nehru and Indira Gandhi museums in Delhi pay homage to a great family who have made huge sacrifices over several decades.

Delhi with a population of 13.8 million is a mass of humanity. First impressions, though, are unlikely to be good. The cacophony of cars, lorries, buses, scooters, pedestrians and street vendors is overwhelming. The beggars, street urchins, stray dogs and cows compete for space and complete a picture of mayhem. One will notice the pollution, the crowds, the smell, the noise and the ceaseless hassles long before one notices its charms. Those who take the trouble to look deeper into this apparent chaos see the vitality and the dignity of it all.

The narrow alleys and the labyrinthine streets of Old Delhi are a remnant of its Mughal past. The present New Delhi is a British creation. Although a conglomeration of seven cities it has risen from the ashes of the invasions and massacres over many centuries.

Delhi is a vast historical site studded with archaeological treasures. Humayun (1508-1556) ascended the throne in Agra at the age of 23. He had a tragic and eventful life. Humayun’s tomb is set in a geometrically arranged garden criss-crossed by numerous water channels representing paradise. It was built by Humayun’s Persian wife. Its magnificent architecture and gardens set the pace for future mausoleums and was the inspiration for the Taj Mahal. This tomb is evocative, haunting and mesmerising and is a must see for all travellers.

Lodi gardens was my refuge from the constant city noise and pollution. It is a large park of beautifully manicured lawns and colourful flowers built around the domed tombs of the 14th century rulers. The park laid in 1936 in the name of Ibrahim Lodi has become a magnet for young lovers and a running track for yuppies in Reeboks. There is a mosque that adds to the serenity of the place.
It was November and the winter fog spread over the city like a veil only to lift with the warmth of the afternoon sunshine. The nights were cold. Connaught Place is the hub of central government. Delhi’s glitziest stores, gourmet restaurants and plush bars are found here. In central Delhi the tree lined streets, lush green gardens and colonial architecture are quintessentially British. The India Gate standing proudly in the heart of Delhi is a grim reminder of the Indian sacrifice in World War I.

The city is home to some of the finest hotels in the world and their service is exceptional. From my bedroom window I could see the Lotus Temple of the Bahai faith designed by the architect of the Sydney Opera House. It is a window that peers un-intrusively into the lives of the people of South Delhi. Once again it is hard to reconcile the sheer opulence of the rich and the utter desperation of the poor in a world that does not care. The car journeys to Jaipur and Agra will be a nightmare for those accustomed to orderly driving in the west.

We took a day trip to Jaipur and arrived in the walled city about mid-morning. Rajasthan is home to a number of wonderful tourist sites in India and Jaipur its capital is a crowded city. Popularly known as the Pink City it was founded in 1727 by King Sawai Jai Singh I. The pink colour was used to create an impression of red sandstone. The people have retained their traditional way of life going back many centuries selling their arts and crafts in the busy city market.

The City Palace is the official residence of the royal family who live in a part of the palace. The rest of the austere building is open to the public. It has a perfect blend of Rajput and Mughal architecture with many courtyards.
Amber Fort was built at the end of the 16th century and many tourists take an elephant ride up the hill to the entrance of the Fort. It costs more to get off the elephant than to get on. It’s hard to bargain whilst high up on the animal!! There is also a beautiful palace built in the middle of a lake called the Summer Palace.

We made several short journeys in Delhi. A trip to Old Delhi is a must. In the old city built by Emperor Shah Jahan, the crumbling old gates and wall are still in evidence. It is a busy vibrant Muslim enclave. In the main commercial street there are mosques, a church and many Hindu temples. Old Delhi is a tangle of narrow streets with tiny clothes shops, bazaars, jewellery stores, sweets shops, and auto spares. The Red Fort or the Lal Quila is situated on the banks of the river Yamuna. This sandstone citadel has grand audience halls, marble palaces and once had its walls studded with precious stones. History was created here by Jawaharlal Nehru when he unfurled the Indian flag on August 15, 1947 commemorating the end of the British colonial rule.

We arrived in Agra once the capital of India after a gruelling journey by car. The Taj Mahal stands out despite the squalor and the poverty of the city, a tribute to beauty itself. Tagore described it as “a tear drop on the cheek of time”. It was built by the Mughal Emperor, Shah Jahan in 1631 in memory of his wife, Mumtaz Mahal. The Taj Mahal took 20,000 people and 1000 elephants 22 years to build. Designed by the Iranian architect Ustad, material for its construction came from all over India and central Asia. It is truly a symbol of eternal love.

The jewel in-laid tomb lies within the dome of white marble flanked by four minarets. The Taj which appears pink in the morning, milky white in the evening and has a golden hue when the moon shines is said to depict the various moods of a woman. It is one of the eight wonders of the world and its architectural beauty has never been surpassed.

Despite his success in art and architecture in his later life Shah Jahan’s mind was never at peace. In 1658 his son Auranzeb deposed his father, killed his brothers and became king. Shah Jahan spent his final years a prisoner in the octagonal tower of the Agra Fort in full view of the meandering Yamuna river and his beloved Taj Mahal.

I have always had a soft spot for this vast country. Its immense appeal to travellers has been the vigour and beauty of its present and the richness of its past.

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