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Behind the pageant

By Ruwanthi Herat
Gunaratne and Thiruni Kelegama
It's all in a day's work for them or rather three nights work for them come January and Duruthu Poya. But visiting the Kelani Raja Maha Viharaya one afternoon last week, it is difficult to imagine a regal and orderly perahera, with arrangements worked out to the last minute detail and planning taking place from the previous August, parading the streets of Kelaniya full of pomp and pageantry.

The hot sun seems to have had its effect on everyone. In the viharaya compound everyone seems to be asleep. Close by, the Kelaniya Vidyalaya classrooms are cluttered with a variety of drums, with drummers, dancers and others asleep on mats beside them. .

When prodded awake, bleary-eyed and half-heartedly they agree to talk to us. "Last night's perahera went on till very late. Tonight's might go on for much longer," someone explains, while the others nod in unison.

A regular at the perahera for 40 years, D. J. Somapala from Manikwatte, in Mawanella says, "We are a 'vess kandayama' (mask dancers). It's a family tradition. My great-grandfather who began the troupe kept the love for dancing alive by teaching and making sure we followed in his footsteps."

Dancing for Somapala is a profession, only open to family members. Are his sons dancing in the perahera? "No," is his wistful reply. "But I mean to get them involved at some point of time. Otherwise our great traditions will die with me."

S. M. B. Sethunge is the leader of a group of drummers specializing in raban and villakki. They have been part of the Kelani perahera for 10 years. "I've been playing the villakki since I was 18, for the past 55 years. I've got my only son dancing with me even today," Sethunge who is from Matale explains.

However, 'kawadi natum' is not a family tradition.

Sunil Fernando who works for the Molana Band from Grandpass says, "I had nothing to do with the perahera when I was young. I worked for the army. It was only when I retired that I was asked to help out with the band since I had some experience while in the army."

This kawadi troupe is headed by Sandan Pichchai and 10 members had performed on Wednesday while 22 were taking part in Thursday's Maha Perahera.

There are five main facets to the Kelani Perahera -- the Udarata Natum, which includes the ves natum; the Pahatharata Natum such as kolum and devul, the Sabaragamu dancers, Kawadi and Sinha Natum, the latest addition.

The Sinha Natum, similar to South East Asian dances, performed by a group of youngsters from Kataragama, entails the making of a lion's body. Two dancers decked in finery representing this majestic beast slip into this casing and bring the lion to life. Why haven't they kept to the more traditional art forms? "We wanted to do something different. The lion gives immense enjoyment to the children," they say.

Meanwhile, in another corner of the classroom, eight-year-old Rumesh cannot stand still in his excitement. "This is my first Kelani Perahera," smiles Rumesh who has been dancing just under a year. He is a student of Jinadasa Gamage's 'Kalayathanaya' where anyone with a love of dancing is free to join.

Coming all the way from Balangoda for this annual pageant K. Punchibandara, a Sabaragamu dancer is proud of his family tradition. "We have been a part of this procession for 30 years and will be for a long time," he says pointing out his sons aged 17 and 13 who have joined him this year.

Back in the temple grounds, the majestic beasts that warm the hearts of every perahera viewer are relaxing too, awaiting the evening to get into their bejewelled costumes. "Abeyta, ada tikkak mahansi," (Abey is a little tired today), says Karunaratne, the Basunnahe from his comfortable bed against a large elephant fast asleep, sprawled on the grass. 'Abey' is a 15-year-old tusker from the Devundara Devale, among the 30 elephants sent from different parts of the country for the Kelani perahera.

Each elephant is allotted two caretakers - the Basunnahe and the Golaya. Shouldn't the elephant prepare itself for the perahera? "No, all we've got to do is slip the cloth on him. And it doesn't take much time at all. The route is embedded in his head anyway," says Karunaratne proudly.

Upali Bandara who looks after 'Lanka' and 'Hemantha' from the Kotte Raja Maha Viharaya adds, "These elephants have been participating in the perahera for the past ten years."
Please turn to page 11


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