Thiruni Kelegama discovers a bustling world at Manning Market
Manned by day and by night
"Aiyin wenna!"These were the shouts we heard, over and over again as men rushed past us, carrying huge sacks on their shoulders. Darkness enveloped us. Except for the yellow lights that flooded the streets and the fluorescent lights shining from the odd wayside boutique, it was pitch black. Dawn was far away.

Colombo had not woken up yet. But in one corner of the city swere these men totally oblivious that the rest of the world was asleep.

Pettah. Manning Market.

Yes, bustling with activity during the day, and in the middle of the night too. During the day, buses and busy people throng the place while at night, lorries come here with their truckloads of goods.

"Truckloads of vegetables and fruits arrive in the middle of the night from all parts of the island," said D. S. D. Ambuldeniya.

"Theys bring ample amounts of vegetables for the people of Colombo."

Look at these mangoes, he continued pointing towards a massive pile. There seemed to be thousands of mangoes there, and it was fascinating to think that so many were consumed daily in this very city.

" These are brought from Minuwangoda, from an estate called Boragodawatte. There are people there who go all around the island plucking the mangoes and bringing them to Minuwangoda, where they are packed and then brought to Colombo. They ripen the fruits, and make sure that they are good enough to be sold on arrival to Colombo."

"I am in charge of the mangoes," Ambuldeniya continued. "I try to sell them to all these shop owners who come here early morning, and buy them wholesale. I get a 10% commission on what I sell. It is hard, yes. I have to come here by 3:30 in the morning, and make sure that a large number of the mangoes get sold."

"Most of the mangoes are brought by fruit shop owners, and the people who sell them in carts near schools," he said, evidently satisfied with his trade.

Trekking past the trucks and lorries from which more workers were unloading vegetables and fruits, we reached the banana stalls! Thousands of bananas and the smell invading the crisp morning air greeted us.

"These bananas come from Embilipitiya and Moneragala. Truckloads of them come in the mornings, and are put into the room where smoke is sent in. They are taken out the next day and sold," says Chandrasena.

"This section is very profitable," he continued. "We have bananas throughout the year unlike many other fruits. Every day we have huge sales and it is obvious Sri Lankans lovethem!"

However,fruits apart, the abundance of vegetables too will amaze you. Pumpkin, carrots, gourds, all piled up looking fresh and tempting.

The men who carried the gunny bags full of vegetables all had a small tool like a hammer, with a pointed edge with which they grab hold of the bag.

M. Naufer has been working at this market over 25 years. "I started helping out all the mudalalis" in the nearby shops, and then I realised that I could carry heavy bags. I come here by 3:00 a.m. and from then onwards it is a continuous process of hauling vegetables to and fro. Yes, it is very strenuous, but then this is how I earn my living. I have no other choice," he said.

By this time, the sun was rising. The men stopped for breakfast, and we wandered outside the market to talk to the people who earn their living selling fruits on the pavement near the main bus stand.

Thambili, mangoes, pineapple, nelli,rampe, sera, and jambu were all lined up on newspapers on the pavement. The women selling them, had their heads covered to battle the chill morning air.

"This is from Imbulgoda and Delgoda," says Somawathie when asked about the thambili she was selling." I live in Imbulgoda, and I have been bringing thambili to Colombo for a number of years now. I get into one of the vegetable trucks with others from my area, and we come here. And yes, by early morning, everything is over!" she says beaming.

"There is so much of thambili this year, because of the rain," said Somatilake and Lionel agreed. "There is also an abundance of kohila, del, bulath, and puvak.

D. M. Ariyawathie, from Polpitigama, a small town off Kurunegala sells nelli,rampe, and sera in Colombo thrice a week.They grow in the small 'watte' near my house. I have to keep on doing this to support my family as my husband is ill." She gets into a lorry in the night, and somehow ensures that whatever she brings that day gets sold

By now, it is early morning and we think we have done the full round at Manning Market, but we realise that there is another set of people who also have their fruits and vegetables closer to the bus stand. "We are from Colombo," they explain. "We come here in the morning and buy different varieties from the market, and sell them outside.We have been here for years, and we have our regular customers," said Gamini, one of the vendors.

By now the sun is shining brightly. But we have seen a part of Colombo that never sleeps.

The betel business
In a small room made of wooden planks, Leelaratne makes his living among piles of betel leaves.

'No, I do not make a big profit. Betel is not so important in many people's lives today. Especially, now as it is the mango season. A man, who eats betel, prefers to eat a mango, which is generally more filling,' he admits.

However, there are days during which he can happily say this trade is good. 'Some days people do not stop coming, I do not have time to breathe,' he says laughing. 'So I suppose I cannot really complain.'

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