Crossing the Suez Canal on the SS Himalaya
It was on the return journey after an enjoyable six-month trip in the European sub-continent and the United Kingdom with my parents, brother, uncle and aunt that we faced a different kind of experience aboard the SS Himalaya.
Leaving London
On July 3, 1959, travelling by tube from London we reached dock 32 at Tilbury at about 3.30 p.m. and went on board the SS Himalaya. The Himalaya sailed at 10 p.m. sharp. Around 12.30 p.m. we were passing the coast of France and were about to enter the Bay of Biscay.
Having come alongside the coast of Portugal at 8 p.m.,we passed a group of islands in the distance and a little later another group of islands where Portugal has a prison for political prisoners. A prominent lighthouse is seen on the largest island where the prison is located.
On July 6 the Himalaya passed the last part of the Bay of Biscay and entered the Straits of Gibraltar. By 11 a.m, we sighted the rock. Till then land on the African coast was seen on the right and the Portugal coast on the left.
Entering the harbour of Gibraltar at about 12 noon, the ship anchored. The cost of transport from ship to land was 4-6 pence per head. Those going ashore left at 1.30 p.m. and returned at 4.15 p.m.The ship left Gibraltar at 5.15 p.m. for Malta and had to slow down due to a fog. The ship’s siren was blown for four minutes. A large shoal of dolphins followed the ship for a considerable distance.
Journey from Gibraltar
to Malta
By Tuesday the 7th noon the SS Himalaya had done 405 km from Gibraltar and the seas were calm. The Captain’s cocktail party was held the previous night. The hall was full with all passengers wearing paper hats.
Arriving at Malta’s Valletta harbour, we left for the shore. The fare paid for the local lunch was one shilling per head. Sightseeing from King’s Palace Post Office, which was Napoleon’s headquarters was interesting. The streets were narrow and winding up to the shore; we went along Merchants Street where the prices of goods were not so cheap and returned to the ship in time for dinner.
The distance from Malta to Port Said is 933 miles out of which 232 had been covered up to 12 noon on the 9th of July. It was a dull day on board and there was a film being shown called, “It happened to Jane”.
Suez Canal- Port Said
to Port Suez
One of the most important shipping lanes in the world, the Suez Canal connects the Mediterranean and the Red Sea.The Suez Canal from Red Sea to the Nile Delta came to be built by Ferdinand De Lesseps, a French Engineer in the middle of the 18th Century in 1859. It took over 10 years to construct at a cost of pounds 29,725,000. The Canal began at Port Said in the North and its length was 193 km or 120 miles to Port Suez in the South.
It was formally opened on November 17, 1896. Suez Canal from Port Said to Suez is 87 ½ miles. The width at head was 72 feet originally and later expanded to 200 feet, while the depth is 42 feet.
There were 13 signal stations. Preference was given to mail steamers and convoys of eight ships could pass at a time.In July 26, 1956 the Egyptian President Gamal Abdel Nasser nationalised the Suez Canal which caused a serious rift with the British and the French. Thus on the journey we were more welcome because of our non-aligned approach as a country during their dispute.
At Port Said harbour
On the 11th we entered the Port Said harbour at 3 a.m. The ship was berthed about 100 yards from the shore and boats with various articles for sale like bags, wallets, carpets and camel chairs soon approached. Egyptian salesmen also came on board and put their wares on C deck.
The next day, the ship started off at 9 a.m and at 11 a.m. we passed Qantara. At 1.30 p.m we had to let a convoy of ships to pass at the by-pass where the canal is duplicated to enable ships to pass each other on a one way system. Till 6p.m the ship was anchored and it was very hot. I remember the canal’s blue water.
Held up at Suez Bay
The ship had struck some object in its transit through the canal and it was suspected that damage had occurred to the propeller. This resulted in it having to stay at Suez Bay. It was discovered by a diver that the shaft had got damaged and not the propeller and the damage was not as serious as earlier thought.The ship was still at Suez Bay on the 13th of July. Different officials were repairing the damage.
Leaving the port at 1.30 p.m., she entered the Red Sea at 2 p.m. travelling at 2 ½ knots per hour. Itwas very warm but bearable. At the speed that the ship was travelling the journey to Colombo would have taken 5-6 days. We were to reach Colombo on the 19th but now it would be the 25th or so.
The Gulf of Aden and
on to Colombo
When the ship docked at Aden on the 17th we were allowed to go ashore after dinner and return to the ship at 10 p.m.
We expected to leave the African coast by the next morning for Colombo. The seas were still rough from 19th till 21st and the ship was swinging from side to side. The waves were very high and people on C deck got drenched including my relatives. We were travelling at 13.2 knots per hour.
Our journey ended on July 24, 1959 when the ship docked at the Colombo harbour. We disembarked at 8.30 p.m. and left with a last look at the SS Himalaya which had been a wonderful ship to make that voyage.