Savouring a perfect setting

We sat sipping Margaritas by the most amazing swimming pool in Sri Lanka, one that seems to slip off its perch above the beach at Aturuwella and soar above the sea. On the horizon, the sun, a perfect blood-orange orb, dipped gently into the deep, dusky blue of the Indian Ocean, all eyes upon it. A pin prick of bright green pierced the glow as the last of the sun seeped into the sea.

“The green flash!” gasped my guest, ignoring her cocktail. “Did you see it?”

The green flash, a phenomenon of refracted light as the sun sets, is one of nature’s displays best seen from the terrace at Saman Villas. The resort takes full advantage of its breathtaking location, poised atop a miniature headland with a long crescent of palm-fringed beach stretching north and south into the distance on either side.Saman Villas caused a stir when it opened south of Bentota in 1995.

The area then was the preserve of mass market hotels hugging the beach and cheap lodgings for backpackers. The opening of what has since become known as a ‘boutique hotel’ with room rates five times what everywhere else charged, was regarded as insanity. It was the madness of genius as the Saman Villas concept has been copied by every resort developer since then and boutique hotels are the rage.

Despite its age, Saman Villas retains the fresh excitement of discovery since its location and size (only 27 suites) keeps it exclusive. Its age works in its favour as it was built before cutting edge technology turned bedrooms into space labs, with too many controls and gadgets to get light or water. There is, however, a button to raise the blind on the fantastic beach view, without having to get out of bed. There is no Wifi connectivity, although Internet is available to laptops by dial up connection.

A lane through a hamlet – much improved in prosperity since the resort opened – leads to a gate which security guards happily open, even for three wheelers. From a pretty cobbled courtyard draped with trees, a formidable flight of steps leads to the reception landing and upwards to the restaurant pavilion and glorious swimming pool. There are no bottles on display in the bar as discretion is the principle, no pushy salesmanship. But there is staff aplenty, 150 in total, which is a high ratio per guest.

Accommodation is in two-storied villas; the upper floor suites have a balcony, the lower ones a veranda, garden and swimming pool. I stayed in Villa 21 with its entrance through a gate in the wall off the courtyard. This opens onto a path of granite stepping stones between two villas. Ahead is a view of the sprawling, surf-splashed beach stretching to Bentota, and a seven-metre long, mosaic-tiled private swimming pool set into the rocks.

There are sun loungers in the garden and a table for dining and a day bed on the veranda. A door set in a wall of windows opens into the suite, ingeniously furnished in a robust but simple manner. The sitting area has a solid work desk, a minibar and DVD set up, with a flat, swivelling television screen like a picture framed on the wall. Walls are whitewashed brick, fabrics silk and colourful.

The sleeping area is defined by two antique-style wooden pillars, with a floor of coir matting and a ceiling of reducing wooden squares. Rococo swing doors lead to the dressing room with large luggage racks and ample closet space, and a washbasin. The bathroom has an open-roofed rain shower in a rock garden plus triangular bathtub and another washbasin set into a wooden counter.

Meals are served in the villa, on the terrace or in the open-sided restaurant. The Executive Chef, Upul Wijekoon has prepared separate European, Asian and Vegetarian a la carte menus and offers a delectable table d'hote selection every evening. I had smoked salmon and silver moda roulade, lobster cappuccino, and a scrumptious herb and mustard-marinated pork tenderloin. Typical of the style of Saman Villas was the presentation of a fish knife for the fish starter.

During the evening of my stay, there was a haunting display of ballet, danced by a local troupe. It was a fitting complement to the beauty of the setting and that rare sighting of the Green Flash. www.samanvilla.com.