Funday Times

Gaveshaka discusses the grand spectacle of the Esala month
When the streets of Kandy are one mass of humanity
Devotees in their thousands gather along the bund of the Kandy lake and down the main streets of the city from morning. Around 7.30 in the evening they hear the firing of a canon ball. They are thrilled - it’s the first sign that the Perahera is about to begin.

The first firing indicates the start of the ‘devala’ processions. The four main devalas around the Dalada Maligawa - Natha, Maha Vishnu, Kataragama and Pattini - participate in the Esala pageant along with the Dalada Perahera. They slowly proceed towards the Maligawa.

A second firing is heard. It signifies the placement of the golden casket on the back of the majestic elephant after the traditional rituals are performed. When a third firing takes place, the crowds get excited because that is the signal for the Dalada Perahera to begin.

Within minutes they hear the sound of ‘kasa karayas’ - whip crackers who act as announcers that the Perahera is on its way. They are immediately followed by the fireball acrobats. Both parties ensure that the path of the procession is kept clear. The Buddhist flag-bearers are next indicating that it is a Buddhist event. Bearers of the district flags and those of viharas and devalas follow.

On the back of the first elephant is the ‘Peramune Rala’ - the Front Officer carrying the ‘lekam mitiya’ - a collection of ‘ola’ (plam leaf) manuscripts with a register of lands belonging to the Temple of the Tooth and the list of names of tenants and the service due by them to the Temple. In the days of the Sinhalese kings, he carried the document with the king’s mandate to hold the Perahera.

Groups of Kandyan dancers and drummers come next followed by the second elephant with the ‘Gajanayaka Nilame’ riding it. As the name suggests, he is the chieftain in charge of elephants and carries a silver goad (ankusa) which is the symbol of his authority.

More musicians, dancers and drummers follow with others carrying flags and banners adding colour and glamour. The ‘Kariya Korala’ rides the next elephant. He is the officer next in command to the Diyawadana Nilame, and is responsible for all the ceremonies connected with the Maligawa.

The moment everyone waits for arrives when the gaily decorated Maligawa tusker carrying the ‘karanduwa’ (golden casket) is sighted with some of the best Kandyan dancers and drummers performing in front, paying homage. A canopy is held over the tusker who is flanked by two elephants with riders fanning and sprinkling flowers. The tusker is well trained to march majestically on the ‘pavada’ - the white cloth spread in front as a mark of respect to the Sri Dalada. Also performing in front of the tusker are the members of the ‘kavikara maduva’ - the group who sings verses in praise of the Tooth Relic.

Two lines of dancers facing each other on either side of the road with the drummers in the centre follow with the Diyawadana Nilame clad in traditional garb walking at the end of the retinue. They are some of the most accomplished dancers and drummers who perform vigorously at certain points where crowds, particularly foreign tourists gather. The Diyawadana Nilame is accompanied by the ‘vidanes’ - the chiefs of the Ten Villages. The traditional symbolic weaponry is carried on either side. These include ‘muraauda’ and ‘sesath’.

Thus the Dalada Perahera ends and then the devala processions begin. While these virtually follow the pattern of the Dalada Perahera, there are certain distinct features in them. The tuskers carry the ‘devaabharana’ - insignia of the respective deities. The Basnayaka Nilame, the lay custodian of each devala walks behind the tusker along with nilames of smaller devalas nearby. Dance forms like ‘kavadi’ and ‘kohomba kale’ are included in the Kataragama devala procession while most of the dancers in the Pattini devala procession are females, Pattini being a goddess.

The sight of ‘randoli’ or palanquins signifies the last item in the Perahera. These are carried by women. The Esala Perahera is conducted over fifteen days starting with a ritual known as the ‘kap situvima’ or planting of a branch of either a jak or a rukattana tree as a blessing for prosperity. This is done at all the devales and for five days thereafter each devala conducts its procession within its precincts.

This year the ‘kap situvima’ is fixed for August 5 and the devala processions will be held till 9th. Then the ‘Kumbal Perahera’ is held when, for the next five days, the procession is conducted within a limited area covering a few streets around the Dalada Maligawa.

The Randoli Perahera, the more glamorous spectacle will be held from August 15-19, when the procession takes a longer route and more dancers, drummers and musicians participate and the Maligawa officials led by the Diyawadana Nilame, in their colourful dresses, parade the streets of the hill capital.

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