Funday Times

Continuing The World Heritage Sites in Sri Lanka
The historic Galle Fort
Historical background
The ancient port city of Galle has a history that stretches back hundreds of years. According to Sir James Tennant, Galle was the ‘Tarshish’ referred to in the Bible as the port where ships trading with King Solomon obtained gemstones, ivory, spices and scented woods. Most certainly the place where the Galle Fort now stands, as well as other areas in Galle all had historic connections which go back long before the Portuguese era. International traders, Persians, Moor traders from the Persian Gulf, South Indian traders, Malays and a host of other nationalities lived and traded in Galle,

Perhaps the earliest recorded reference to Galle comes from the great Arab traveller, Ibn Battuta, who visited the port – which he called Qali - in the mid 14th century. The Portuguese first arrived in 1505, when a fleet commanded by Lorenzo de Almeida took shelter from a storm in the lee of the town. In 1587, they seized control of the town from the Sinhala kings and began the construction of the Galle Fort.

The Dutch captured the city from the Portuguese in 1640. They built the Fort in 1663, in the way it is seen now. They built a fortified wall, using solid granite, and built three bastions, Sun, Moon and Star. There was a developing town centre and other buildings. The Dutch remained for almost 150 years, until the city was taken over by the British in 1756. The long years of association with European colonialism had left an indelible stamp on the city, which makes it unique. In recognition of this, the Old City of Galle, which is the Fort and its surroundings was declared a World Heritage Site in 1988.

The old and the new
Galle is really a tale of two cities. Inland to the north of the Colombo – Matara road, is the modern commercial town, characterized by a jumble of bustling stores, warehouses and small restaurants. Immediately south of the road, dividing the commercial sector from the old fort lies the Esplanade, which is now the Galle Cricket Stadium. Old Galle begins just south of the Stadium. Its barriers are unmistakable as three massive bastions rise up behind the playing fields.

The Galle Fort covers an area of 36 hectares and encloses several museums, a clock tower, churches, mosques, a lighthouse and several hundred private dwellings. The Dutch cultural influence is still evident in the Fort after two centuries since they left.

The ancient walls of the fort are largely intact. Rising high above the esplanade the crenellated bastions are also standing firm. Fearing an assault by the Sinhala kings, three great ramparts were built to isolate it from the mainland. One can take a stroll along the walls of the Old City for most of the way. It is only necessary to descend to the fort itself at one spot between the Aurora Bastion and the Main Gate. The southeastern corner of the Fort is dominated by the lighthouse built by the British in 1934.

What makes Galle special is that it still retains a unique old world atmosphere. The real charm of Old Galle lies in the quiet back streets and alleyways of the historic fort, which have changed little since colonial times. There are two entries into the fort, the Main Gate built by the British in 1873, piercing the main ramparts between the Sun and Moon Bastions, and the more venerable Old Gate further to the east. The Old Gate was completed by the Dutch in 1669. It is very elaborate and has the inscription of the Dutch East India Company carved on the inner lintel, while the British coat of arms is seen on the outer lintel. Just beyond the Old Gate stands the Zwart bastion, or Black Fort, the oldest fortification surviving in Galle, and thought to be of Portuguese origin.

The interior of the Galle Fort is strongly reminiscent of the Dutch period. Most of the Portuguese structures were destroyed when the Dutch took over the fort. Several of the narrow streets still bear Dutch names. Many of the streets are lined with buildings characterized by large rooms and arched verandahs.

The northern part of the fort is dominated by the British built clock tower and a small roundabout located behind the Main Gate. Three museums lie within the Fort.

The New Oriental Hotel, built by the Dutch in 1684, is a hotel of old-world charm. Located on Church Street, just south of the New Oriental Hotel, is the Groot Kerk or Dutch Reformed Church founded in 1754 by the then Dutch Governor of Galle, Capar de Jong.

Opposite the Groot Kerk stands the old Dutch Government House, a fine old colonial building dating back to 1683. Further south along Church Street stands the All Saints Church, built by the British in 1868. Beyond this are and Islamic College and two mosques, the more impressive of which is the Meera Masjid.

The Fort, apart from having one of the oldest libraries established in 1832, also houses lawyers complexes and courts and three commercial banks.

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