Travel
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a houseboat in Kashmir I visited Kashmir many years ago. While chatting in the staff-room one day, my friend Pari suddenly announced, "I am leading a tour to Kashmir, who would like to come with me?" There was a hush. It was an era when young ladies hardly stepped out of their homes without their parents. But I immediately said I would join. My parents were broadminded, and best of all, I knew they would pay my travel expenses and give me a generous allowance for shopping. A few others joined the tour. We were to go by train from Fort to Mandapam in Mannar and by ferry to Dhanushkodi. From there it was a train trip to Delhi, a two-day journey, and then we would fly to Kashmir. It was only when I looked at a map of India that I realised that we were going to travel by train from the tip of south India all the way north to Delhi. We set off at night and reached the ferry at dawn. It was a beautiful sight. The sunrise, the water lapping the walkway, porters bustling about carrying luggage, and little urchins diving into the sea to collect the coins thrown by the travellers. The train journey was uneventful. We had first class berths and at every station they brought a huge block of ice in a galvanised bath tub to keep us cool. We ate mandarins and pink melon as the heat was oppressive. A small plane took us over the mountains and into the picturesque Kashmir valley. Some went by bus as it was less costly but it looked dangerous as the driver drove at high speed on the winding road skirting the mountains. Most passengers kept their eyes closed as they didn't want to see the precipitous terrain they were travelling on. In Kashmir we stayed in a beautiful houseboat on the Daal Lake which was run like a tourist hotel. We had the comforts of a 4 star hotel and the experience of floating in the water at the edge of the lake. On a moonlit night we went for a boat ride on the Daal Lake with the boatman serenading us with Kashmiri love songs. The rippling water gleaming in the moonlight and snowcapped mountains around us were a perfect setting for romance but unfortunately our boys were back in Sri Lanka. In the houseboat while eating a British-style breakfast, we could see from the window little sailing boats known as Shikaris moored in the water, one behind the other, with Kashmir goods for sale. The first boat had an assortment of woollen carpets with Kashmir designs sewn in thread, another had lovely mountain wildflowers. You could buy a bunch for a few cents. Another Shikari had Kashmiri woollen shawls woven from the wool taken from the mountain goats' beard. These were so soft and delicate, the shawl could be passed through a ring. What caught our fancy was the boat full of jewellery. You could buy onyx, jade, turquoise, red carnelian and a variety of coloured stones. And they were cheap. Our jaws dropped when we heard the price and they mistakenly thought it was too high and reduced the price further. I bought an entire necklace made of green jade for Rs. 30, another pink jade chain of silver filigree for a similar price and an elaborate jade ring for Rs. 10! We brought back loads of exquisite earrings and silver bangles studded with stones. The collection was marvellous. Woollen capes and stoles with hand embroidery, vases and plates of papier mache with dainty leaf designs, silk Kashmir sarees for Rs. 50 and delicately carved walnut tables. We didn't have to trudge through streets and shops, we sat there and the goods were brought to us. One morning we were taken to climb a snow mountain. We went up the mountain to Gulmarg on horseback and then walked through the snow. Returning after snow rides in sleighs and walking knee deep in snow, one of our companions who had no head for heights was so petrified coming down a steep slope on horseback that she clutched the horse's mane. The animal tossed its head to shake her off, and she was thrown over the horse's head. On another occasion we were taken to a scenic spot on the mountain range. We picnicked in the grass by a mountain stream and tried our hand at trout fishing, without much luck. The beauty around us, with the river slowly meandering down the mountain and fields of wild flowers between the green valley and snow-capped purple mountains in the distance and the clear sky above was breathtaking. We ate grilled trout hot from the open fire, freshly made salad and had baked apples for dessert. It was quaint to see large creepers growing on the thatched rooftops laden with large melons and gourds and fair, bright-eyed girls with pink cheeks peering from the huts. Kashmiri women are very beautiful but tend to keep indoors. We visited a silk factory and bought Kashmir silk sarees. Naturally, we were more interested in the sarees than the silk worms on mulberry trees, cocoons and silk handlooms. Kashmir is a holiday resort and the lake surrounded by mountains has fascinated many a traveller. It's good news that with the peace talks between India and Pakistan and cessation of border warfare, Kashmir will once again be accessible to those of us who yearn to travel. Party-time
in Hikkaduwa There must be something magic with the gentle wind welcoming you at the beach. People seemed to be enjoying themselves everywhere I looked, some were on the dance floor, some were chatting in the bar, others were gathering around a fire in the sand with a beer in hand. The DJ has only one mission for the evening: to make you want to dance. So he does his best playing house, trance, techno, hip hop and of course, reggae. After midnight you will hear Bob Marley's forever-popular songs. The Rasta legend from Jamaica is referred to as 'Big Brother' all over the southwest coast. On special occasions there are live bands as well. Zoe, 23, from Australia is visiting Hikkaduwa for the first time and her conclusion is: "My friends and I love it here and spend 24 hours a day on the beach. We have all our meals there, sunbathe, swim and when the sun goes down the scene is set for parties. It's cheap, we meet different people and the atmosphere is relaxed." She adds that beach parties in Sri Lanka are different from other countries she has been to: "In Thailand and Vietnam you'll find similar parties on the beach but you wouldn't meet many locals." "I come from Galle to party here every weekend, I'm addicted to dancing and the breeze helps me to never get tired. I meet both friends and tourists," explains Nuwan, 24. The parties are only on for the high season starting in November. "We start looking forward to the season and new parties in May." He's not the only party-lover around: we spotted a young Sri Lankan dancing with a bandage on his foot! It is not only young people who are here to dance the night away. Middle-aged German couples hold hands over a drink and sing along to 'No woman no cry'. A thirty-something Englishman stamps his feet awkwardly to the music while his wife is surrounded by Sri Lankan men on the dance floor. The main difference from Colombo clubs is the setting, others are the prices, the clientele and the fact that the clubs are not open every night. Restaurants are made into clubs with a magic touch in Hikkaduwa. While walking on the beach you'd never guess that the quiet place you had a lassi at lunchtime was the same place you partied last night. You've got four clubs to choose from and they'll arrange a party for you on various days. Why Not and Baseline have made 'Why not party every Friday?' their motto before Top Secret takes over on Saturdays and Vibration, famous for their live bongo drummers have fun on Sundays. There is no dress code and usually no admission fee and drinks are reasonably priced as well. With Lankans, Israelis, Germans, British, Scandinavians and Japanese, it's a colourful lot and hundreds might gather on a party night. We met students from Colombo coming all the way to Hikkaduwa to party. "We prefer the laid back open air clubs where we can afford to buy more than one drink. Never mind the bus trip the party scene here is unique," they said. So how does a perfect night out in Hikkaduwa end? You head for the roti shop of course! The cheese rotis are famous or how about a banana pancake with chocolate? Taking
Sri Lanka in on a bicycle A group of 20 British nationals cycled from Negombo to Trincomalee, through the central hill country and the Cultural Triangle, on lesser known roads and cycle trails. The tourists who cycled an average of 75 km per day had said that cycling was definitely the best way to fully appreciate Sri Lanka's amazing diversity in terms of climate, terrain and culture. Logistics and support activities for these events are complex and Nature Odyssey provided two mini coaches, one cycle truck, two four wheel drive vehicles, a motor bike outrider and a doctor. The usual concept behind this kind of cycle tour is that a group interested in carrying out a sponsored challenge to raise funds for a worthy cause get together and generate funds towards a particular charity in Sri Lanka, fly down, carry out the challenge and hand over the raised funds to the relevant charity. Therefore, it's a mutually beneficial venture, says Michael Elias, Director, Nature Odyssey. Although from varied professions, ranging from doctors to nurses to teachers etc. the cyclists were all unanimous in their environmentally conscious outlook, he adds. All members of the group confirmed their participation in the next cycle challenge to be held later this year. Nature Odyssey is two years old this January and was established to have a comprehensive, specialist team whose first love was nature, says Michael. He says that it's vital that the entire team "breathes the business" and has a love for nature. A typical characteristic of a Nature Odyssey tour is to provide their clients with programmes consisting of unique, remote trails. Their main intention is to select less known, less populated localities where their clients can have a first hand experience of the Lankan environment and culture. Their main focus lies with organising custom-made trekking, cycling, rafting and bird watching tour programmes, to meet the individual requirements of each of their clients, adds Michael. They look to provide not just another ordinary tour but to create (as stated in their motto) "The Timeless Experience". Nature Odyssey is currently working on organising a similar Coast-to-Coast Cycle Challenge in April, including new locations and routes. |
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