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Meeting divinity at Tantirimale
By Chris Edirisinghe
I visited Tantirimale with some of my Buddhist friends on Duruthu Poya. I undertook this journey as an official duty as we were donating dry rations. I had never ventured there before, but this Duruthu Poya it was different.

The Chief Priest of Tantirimale had organized an Astamahapala Bodhi Wandana Maha Pinkama, a religious programme that commemorates events that took place in history. We are aware that Buddhism was officially brought to Sri Lanka by Mahinda Thera and that King Devanampiyatissa accepted the religion, which then spread through the country. Theri Sanghamitta later brought a sapling of the Sacred Bo tree from India. On the way to Anuradhapura this sacred sapling was kept at Tantirimale overnight.

The route to Anuradhapura, even during the time of King Vijaya was along the Malwathu Oya, the northern border of Tantirimale. The sapling when it was brought to Tantirimale, was accepted by a Brahmin by the name of Thivakkha and kept on the main rock for veneration by devotees.

The sapling was planted in Anuradhapura and with time eight shoots began to grow from the tree. In appreciation of the reception accorded to Sanghamitta and the Sacred Bo sapling, the Brahmin was presented with the first shoot. That is why it is called Astamahapala Bodhi.

This Bo tree still stands at the place it was originally planted, though with time the tree as well as the site underwent changes. Like many other religious and historical sites in Sri Lanka, Tantirimale also was covered with jungle and became a sort of lost city. The present revival and development are mainly due to the fact that a couple of decades ago, a Buddhist priest by the name of Ven. Kuda Kongaskada Wimalagnana took the bold step of going to this place where wild animals roamed. It is said that he took only a loaf of bread for sustenance during the whole journey.

Living under trees and in rock caves, being exposed to the elements and the wildlife, he developed this place to what it is now. He was unfortunately killed in a terrorist bomb attack in July 1992. The spot where this tragedy took place is still preserved, and his memory is still very much alive. The present high priest, his pupil Ven. Tantirimale Chandraratana is continuing the good work of his guru.

Originally Tantirimale was known as Thivakkha Bamunugama, the village of the Brahmin. There is also the interesting story of Saliya and Asokamala, who lived here when they were banished from society for their forbidden love. Later, King Dutugemunu pardoned the couple and gifted them a golden necklace in the form of a butterfly of the then known tantiri variety. Some believe that the present name is derived from this along with the modification of the Tamil name 'tangaithirumalai'.

During the recent period of ethnic strife, Tantirimale was overrun by the LTTE several times, and the hapless people lived in constant fear. But now the place looks peaceful. The LTTE border is just north of the Malwathu Oya, which flows peacefully a couple of kilometres north of the temple. The Madhu shrine too lies north of Tantirimale.

This place belongs not only to those who come to practise their faith and meditate, but also to those who wish to admire the very earth on which we live. I have visited many a place of historical and religious importance, but Tantirimale left me filled with wonder.

Even if you do not believe in an organized religion you will be compelled to meditate and pray, realising how small you are in the vast universe that surrounds us. When evening comes and the full moon starts rising from the east you can experience the serenity and vastness of the place.

The place itself has been made for meditation and listening to bana preaching. You can sit under the shade of a tree or under a great boulder or in a rock cave and meditate for days. People sat on rocky outcrops listening attentively to the bana preaching, breaking the silence now and then for a salutation of 'Saadhu'.

Then the procession of devotees led by the monks started winding their way to the imposing chetiya, built recently, to offer dana. While I sat or walked along this place I prayed that peace may continue in this land.

We see many places in our beautiful island, that should be regarded as sacred, taking on a commercial hue. Some places have become so commercialised that only the removal of your footwear indicates that you are on sacred ground. The authorities must make sure that Tantirimale remains what it is, not a tourist attraction, but a place strictly for meditation and prayer.

To anyone interested in getting here, it is about 40 km from Anuradhapura. There are two routes to get there. We took the route northwest of Anuradhapura towards Vilachchiya, but turning right at Elayapattu through the jungle. Roads have been constructed and there is electricity now. The roads are still being developed, so there is quite a lot of dust. En route you can see many water holes and ponds. There is wildlife here.

Apart from the Sacred Bo tree, the chetiya and temple, there are various sites of historical interest; rock carvings, frescoes, prehistoric rock carvings and statues of Lord Buddha, including a large statue of the reclining Buddha carved out of rock.

Around 270 families, whose main livelihood is chena cultivation, live here. There is a school close to the temple for the education of around 600 children. Though wells and even tube wells are in abundance, drinking water may not be what we are used to in cities. There are many things that the children of Tantirimale need, such as a dental clinic and teachers who are willing to work in difficult surroundings.

We came across only a handful of boutiques and tea kiosks, fortunately no hotels, tourist guest houses or other luxury accommodation. For here, you can find only divinity, religion, meditation, prayer and yourself.

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