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A performance that will blow you away

By D.C. Ranatunga
Want to taste hot, hot 'bedapu maalu'? Then get to Hummanaya down South. It may sound absurd but the fried 'bollu', 'salayo' and 'dello' sold at the stalls along the way are really tempting, particularly after the trek to the blowhole, which is a big attraction today.

Hummanaya is situated on a rocky cliff in Kudawella close to Nakulugamuwa off the Matara-Hambantota highway around the 117th milepost, about four miles past Dikwella. There are only six known blowholes in the world and this is the second largest, according to Dr. H. A. P. Abeywardana. In the Central Bank publication, 'Heritage of Ruhuna', he writes: "The outlet is at the top of a fissured cliff about 75 feet above sea level. At the bottom of this deep fissure is a flat rock forming the bottom of a narrow channel, which forms the cave into which the waves roll.

“The water, trapped by the surging sea, shoots out through the small outlet at the top making a deep rumble. The fountain shoots up to 60 feet depending on the strength of the waves. The rumble has given this place its Sinhala name 'hummanaya’,” he explains.

It is a fascinating sight - one that you can go on looking at. Once you get there, you feel like staying on - to see whether the next wave would shoot up higher. The most spectacular display of the blowhole, they say, can be seen during the southwest monsoon, especially in June. Around the blowhole is the beach with busy fisherfolk attending to their daily activity. To them there is nothing strange about it. It's a common happening.

Well-known researcher and writer Dr. R. L. Brohier calls it "a mystery cave". The people in the area refer to the place as Velle-kele - the jungle in the seashore. Brohier describes his experience in 'Seeing Ceylon': "An enormous crowd, collected apparently from nowhere, has gone before you, and form a live wall on the further edge of the cliff. Hoo! They shout and again 'Hoo...o!Ho...o! The sea will not brook ridicule, they declare. But what is it that you now hear? Could it be a cry from a hundred lusty throats? No! This sound seems different. The hoarse gurgling roar gathers in volume - then, suddenly, a pillar of water churned to a dazzling whiteness gushes out somewhere up the cliff and for the moment you stand aghast.

“Up...up, it rushes, attaining may be even as much as 60 feet in height, then, standing vertically poised for a split second,.....it falls back in a glistening veil of spray. It is the only discovered blow-hole in Ceylon.

"To watch this spectacle the better, you go nearer, and then perhaps, impelled by that elusive something which always seems to draw one as near the edge of a cliff, as caution will permit, you venture a little further. Below, you see a deep fissure, which runs down the precipitous side to meet the incoming waves. The subterranean cave below the cliff, and the vertical tunnel it connects up to, are but incidents."

Not so very long ago, returning from Hambantota we decided to visit Hummanaya. We were virtually the only visitors. There were no vendors and boutiques, except for one or two, serving the people in the area. May be we were there during the 'wrong' season. It's a totally different story now. You have to first find parking space for the vehicle. There are many youngsters to help you. The parking fee is Rs 30. Then they give you instructions on how to get to the blowhole. "Turn to the right, walk behind that boutique and keep going,” they advise you. No guide is necessary. You just follow the others.

As the walk proceeds, there are constant calls to try a 'beli-mal' drink. It's about a 10-minute walk to the site.

Here and there a not-so steep climb but nearing the Hummanaya is a fairly steep and rough climb. A bit tiring but a walk well worth it to enjoy a rare sight.

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