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Dying ring of the tiffin man

In these days of lunch packets for sale at every street corner and fast food snacks in every other shop, a home-cooked rice and curry is not only a luxury but also quite scarce with the hectic routine of working couples. But for some Sri Lankans it is a difficult "custom" to give up and a few of them still enjoy that luxury, thanks to the handful of "bath bicyclemen" who are stubbornly clinging onto a dying trade.

Not so long ago, hundreds of tiffin or lunch carriers could be seen gathered near the Wellawatte canal exchanging their clients' plates of rice, to fit the route they would be pedalling furiously on, to get the lunches to them on time. Now they can be counted on the fingers of one hand and tracking them is like investigating a vanishing breed.

"Yes, there are only five of us doing this trade now," says 56-year-old H.G. Gunapala as we catch him at noon on a Monday, after a long wait at the Queen's Road-Duplication Road junction.

Collecting about 30 lunches, starting from his home area of Attidiya at around 8 a.m. and covering Dehiwela, Wellawatte and Bambalapitiya, he makes a very brief stop here to "kema addukku karanna". To sort out the lunches which come in various shapes and sizes -- packets, plates tied up with checked serviettes and food flasks in blue and red to keep the rice and curry warm-for easier delivery along his route. Sometimes the food is still on the fire when he rings the bicycle bell at the gate of his client, then he gives them another five minutes. He cannot wait any longer because the delays will disrupt not only his task but also keep his clients waiting for their afternoon meal.

The lunches are taken to offices and shops close to Eye Hospital, on Navam Mawatha, Dharmapala Mawatha, many by-lanes and even as farther as Aluth Kade where the plush Supreme Court buildings are.

A loner who handles his work alone, unlike the other four who keep to the tradition of exchanging lunches, Gunapala has been on the job for 30 long years. At the different drop off points, he carefully hands over the lunches to the canteens or the security personnel manning the gate. The final plate is dropped off about 1.45 p.m. He starts the return pick up of the now empty plates around 2.15 p.m., ironically only grabbing a bite of lunch for himself and not a home-made meal, while on the move.

With so many lunches, doesn't he ever get them mixed up and give the wrong one to the wrong person? "No, never,” he smiles, proudly showing us that most of the lunches don't even have labels or tags. "Puruddata gihilla." (I know through habit which is which).

Five days a week, in sun and rain, Gunapala cycles strenuously through the traffic to get his job done, earning between Rs. 200 to 300 on each plate, each month, depending on the distance. His hands work dexterously while talking to us, sorting out the lunches, without a minute's pause.

His day's work ends only around 6.30 p.m. when he finally hands over the last empty plate. He cannot fall ill or take a day off for the survival of his family of wife and three children depends on him. After all these labours he is able to take home a meagre Rs. 5,000 to 6,000 a month. "We manage," he says with stoic resignation not questioning his lot in life.

Life has been difficult for him since he was four years and his father, a coconut plucker, fell off a tree to his death.

His mother who did not have any means of bringing up the family in their hometown of Matara moved them to an uncle's house in Bellanwila. There were no opportunities for much study.

Starting off by doing odd jobs very young, he moved into this trade in his twenties, long before the bicycle became a tool of help. "I used to carry the lunches in a large box on my head and board the train at Mount Lavinia for the Fort. Getting off at Fort I walked around distributing the lunches, earning about Rs. 35 per month from each customer," he recalls.

What of the future? He does not know. He feels it is a dying trade, made difficult due to roads being closed or most being one-way. "It's also not a paying job. Godak mahansi wenna onai. You needed to toil very hard cycling 30 to 40 miles per day," he concedes, adding that the younger generation will not take to it.

Gunapala needs to hurry, he cannot linger any longer, wasting his valuable time. He bids goodbye and crosses the road to a tiny street kiosk. Pally with the stall owner, he cuts himself a thamibili, gulps down the water, buys one cigarette, most probably his only sustenance since morning. Then he's off to do his duty of taking home-made rice and curry to his clients.

As we lose sight of him weaving his way through the thick traffic of Duplication Road with his heavy box behind him, we wonder how soon the "bath bicycles" would become extinct, vanishing like the rickshaw pullers of yore. Is his bell the swansong of the tiffin carriers? Only time will tell.

Great - grandmum’s needle magic

By Esther Williams
There was a time when she went bird watching and sketched birds at close quarters. She would go to the zoo and spend hours studying peacocks and peahens so that she could get the colours just right.

Later in life, when her eyesight did not permit her to do so, she collected pictures from newspapers, magazines and posters, photocopying and enlarging them to life-size before using carbon paper to transfer the pictures onto cloth. Only then, would she start sewing.

Great-grandmother Kusuma Hettiarachie, is in her late 80s and the needle painting that she has been doing for most of her life has not just been a delightful hobby but also a definite therapy that has kept her in good health.

Next month, she holds an exhibition of her work titled 'Our Feathered Friends' at the Lionel Wendt Gallery.Kusuma has embroidered from her schooldays at Musaeus College during colonial times. It was only decades later while she was in England in 1990 that she learnt that she was using an ancient needlework form called Opus Anglicanum. Her son had taken one of her embroidery pieces to the Victoria & Albert Museum and curators there identified it as needle painting. They traced the history of this art form also called the long and short stitch and found that it was done in the 13-14th century in Britain. Its technical name was Opus Anglicanum meaning English work or how to paint with a needle. A branch of it was called Opus Plumarium, which means either general plumage or featherwork.

From the latter half of the 14th century, research indicates, there was a sharp decline in embroidery of this type. In those days it was mainly used for church work, to depict scenes such as the Last Supper, etc.

As far as Kusuma is aware no one else in Sri Lanka practises this technique.

So from the annual school needlework exhibition where she outshone others, her passion for this art form continued. Later, her household linen, children's clothes and nightwear had the same dainty cross stitch and satin stitches etc. In fact, all the clothes her children wore were embroidered.

Graduating in Pali, Sinhalese and English at the London University, Kusuma taught at St. John's College, Panadura and after retirement spent seven years in Zambia teaching English language and literature. Though she was hesitant about going there, it proved to be a period of absolute pleasure, she recalls. "They are such nice kind-hearted people who wanted to learn and respected those who taught them."

Following the brief period in England, Kusuma lived in Canada for 10 years. Her exhibitions of needle paintings, both in England (1990) and Canada (1998) gave her much exposure.

Back in Sri Lanka, this sprightly old lady now spends 2 - 2 ½ hours a day on her hobby. It takes about 4-5 months to complete one picture. "It requires monumental patience and total absorption but now I have all the time in the world," Kusuma smiles.

Her offspring, she says, have no time in their busy schedule to learn the art.

Looking back, Kusuma reflects that most of her skill was developed on her own - by sitting for hours to get the effect of light and shade - using her needle as a medium to paint the picture.

Kusuma's exhibition of needle paintings will be held on April 4 (5.30 to 7.30 p.m.) 5 and 6 at the Lionel Wendt gallery. The entire proceeds from the sale will be donated to the Hope Cancer Hospital Fund.By Esther Williams

There was a time when she went bird watching and sketched birds at close quarters. She would go to the zoo and spend hours studying peacocks and peahens so that she could get the colours just right.

Later in life, when her eyesight did not permit her to do so, she collected pictures from newspapers, magazines and posters, photocopying and enlarging them to life-size before using carbon paper to transfer the pictures onto cloth. Only then, would she start sewing.

Great-grandmother Kusuma Hettiarachie, is in her late 80s and the needle painting that she has been doing for most of her life has not just been a delightful hobby but also a definite therapy that has kept her in good health.

Next month, she holds an exhibition of her work titled 'Our Feathered Friends' at the Lionel Wendt Gallery.Kusuma has embroidered from her schooldays at Musaeus College during colonial times. It was only decades later while she was in England in 1990 that she learnt that she was using an ancient needlework form called Opus Anglicanum. Her son had taken one of her embroidery pieces to the Victoria & Albert Museum and curators there identified it as needle painting. They traced the history of this art form also called the long and short stitch and found that it was done in the 13-14th century in Britain. Its technical name was Opus Anglicanum meaning English work or how to paint with a needle. A branch of it was called Opus Plumarium, which means either general plumage or featherwork.

From the latter half of the 14th century, research indicates, there was a sharp decline in embroidery of this type. In those days it was mainly used for church work, to depict scenes such as the Last Supper, etc.

As far as Kusuma is aware no one else in Sri Lanka practises this technique.

So from the annual school needlework exhibition where she outshone others, her passion for this art form continued. Later, her household linen, children's clothes and nightwear had the same dainty cross stitch and satin stitches etc. In fact, all the clothes her children wore were embroidered.

Graduating in Pali, Sinhalese and English at the London University, Kusuma taught at St. John's College, Panadura and after retirement spent seven years in Zambia teaching English language and literature. Though she was hesitant about going there, it proved to be a period of absolute pleasure, she recalls. "They are such nice kind-hearted people who wanted to learn and respected those who taught them."

Following the brief period in England, Kusuma lived in Canada for 10 years. Her exhibitions of needle paintings, both in England (1990) and Canada (1998) gave her much exposure.

Back in Sri Lanka, this sprightly old lady now spends 2 - 2 ½ hours a day on her hobby. It takes about 4-5 months to complete one picture. "It requires monumental patience and total absorption but now I have all the time in the world," Kusuma smiles.

Her offspring, she says, have no time in their busy schedule to learn the art.

Looking back, Kusuma reflects that most of her skill was developed on her own - by sitting for hours to get the effect of light and shade - using her needle as a medium to paint the picture.

Kusuma's exhibition of needle paintings will be held on April 4 (5.30 to 7.30 p.m.) 5 and 6 at the Lionel Wendt gallery. The entire proceeds from the sale will be donated to the Hope Cancer Hospital Fund.


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