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It all happened in Colombo
By Upali Salgado
The changing face of Colombo, and the lifestyles of her people exposed to Western culture are always fascinating.

Two writers, Herbert Hulugalle, a former Editor of the Ceylon Daily News, and Dr. R.L. Brohier, OBE, have in print recorded many facets of the History of Colombo, which was once a Moor trading centre and later a Portuguese and Dutch cittadel. During British times, it was known as the 'Garden City'. This story is to rekindle the interest of readers about what life in Colombo once was.

The prominent landmarks that beautify the landscape of Colombo are Slave Island with the picturesque Beira Lake encircling the human settlement, and the Galle Face walk ('Green' as it is known today). Moors and Malays have lived in Slave Island for over 800 years, and also 'Kaffir' soldiers, brought from Mozambique and the Sudan to serve as soldiers in the British army. Their imprints are Mosque Lane, Malay Street, Moor's Passage, Rifle Street and Arab Passage. The Kaffirs who mixed up with the indegenous population have now moved out to be in Palavi (near Puttalam) and at Batticaloa.

Galle Face Green (founded by Sir Henry Ward in 1846)), was "dedicated to the Ladies of Colombo", who gathered there in the evenings with their babies in prams. The "Kaffirs" who were slaves, met at Galle Face Green to sing their lively songs. Afghan money lenders who visited the metropolis during British colonial times, sat on the green in circles, comparing notes of the clients who avoided paying interest. In those days, there was no developed banking system to dole out loans. In that scenario, it was not uncommon to see a poor underpaid mercantile clerk evade the strong arm of the Afghan by taking a circuitous route to work, sporting a wig to cover his bald head and feigning a 'limp'.

As seen even today at London's Hyde Park, soap box orators of the prestigious YMCA Forum, lectured aloud for or against impending legislation. They were well received for their eloquence. Using no microphones, they entertained onlookers who munched gram and drank the sweet saruwath. The Police band was present on week-ends to play music. The popular numbers were 'The Donkey's Serenade', 'Daisy-Daisy' and 'Clementine'.

At Kollupitiya, the Church of St. Michael and All Angels was gutted by a major fire. Thereafter, the devout parishioners decided to rebuild this church using granite. Hence it is called the "Gal Palliya". At Deal Place, in a house named "Orwell", there lived a German spy during World War II. He used a powerful transmitter to give valuable information about troop movements and the fortifications around the Colombo Port. Bagatalle Road became infamous when the "White House" murder took place. One Stephen Senewiratne was charged with the murder of his wife. This road also had the Pembroke Academy, the first post matriculation tutory, from which many passed out to enter the then Colombo University College, which conducted London examinations.


During weekends, most people were in their homes listening to the old valve radio. I remember hearing over the radio of the abdication of King Edward VIII. There were hardly any public dances or fashion shows. Sinhala plays written by John de Silva were staged at the famous "Tower'', Maradana, whilst in the early 30s the area close to the Khan clock tower, Pettah, was called the Racquet Court where the silent movie and other forms of entertainment, such as a visiting circus thrilled and amused those present.

A frequent visitor to homes was the torangal man who carried on his head a large box full of things such as glass bangles, hair clips, soap, hankerchieves, toys and perfumes. The Chinaman carried a huge bundle of cloth (linen) on his back - all imported from distant HongKong. Another Chinaman too came on a cycle with a box strapped onto his luggage carrier. The box had the words 'Tasty Noodles', but they were uncooked!

The Colombo race course attracted thousands on "Governor's Cup" and "Robert's Cup" days. The race course was converted to an airfield during the war, from where British "Spitfire" fighter planes took off. When the Japanese air raid took place in April 1942, twenty two enemy aircraft were shot down in a single day, as Colombo was fortified to be the last post of resistance for the Allies. Wreckage of Japanese fighter aircraft were seen at Galle Face, S. Thomas' College, Mt. Lavinia cricket grounds, Hokandara, Mahara and at Mirihana. In the early 60s, on the Sinhalese new year day elephant races took place on the race course.

This brief story would not be complete without a reference to the fire brigade. Two horse-drawn fire engines were seen at Kollupitiya and at Kotahena. Later, modern motorised fire engines were located at Reclamation Road, Pettah. Three of the biggest fires recorded, took place when the Times building and the Grindlays Bank building were destroyed.

Today, we see thousands of 'three wheelers' in Colombo. Sixty years ago, it was the electrically operated tram car that moved about between Kotahena and Pettah via Dam Street. The fare then was only 5 cents for the journey.

When the Municipal Council decided that the tram car was to give way to the more efficient trolley bus, the last of the tram cars was to ply between Main Street and Bassfounder Street, and halt at midnight. Many kept awake to see the last of the 'Old Ladies', as they were known, on their final journey. The machine was decorated with balloons and illuminated. Seated inside was the Kotahena Brass Band, playing 'Happy Times' and 'He's a Jolly Good Fellow'. The Pettah boys who boarded the car, jam packed as it was, were in high spirits, having knocked down spirits, to keep their spirits up. What a scene it was... And finally, when the 'dear old lady' came to a grinding halt sharp at midnight, the merrymaking travellers alighted and gave the driver, the conductor and the 'Old Lady' three hearty cheers!

 

The complete guide to the Anglo-Sri Lankan lexicon by Richard Boyle - Part XXII
Asweddumizing the land

Just one word from the Anglo-Sri Lankan lexicon concerning agriculture is contained in the second edition of the Oxford English Dictionary (OED2). Nevertheless, that word - chena - is an important one, because apart from its prevalence throughout English literature pertaining to Sri Lanka, it has begun to appear in environmental literature internationally.

There is a belief among some language specialists in Sri Lanka that the verb asweddumize is recorded in the OED2 and other English dictionaries.

This is not the case, although considerable historical and contemporary evidence exists. Such evidence has been forwarded to the New Words Group at the OED for evaluation, so it is possible the word will be included sometime in the future.

asweddumize (1865?). In the absence of an OED entry, I provide the following extended definition (author unknown): "Derived from Sinhala assvadhuma."

"It denotes the preparation of irrigable land for wet rice/paddy cultivation in perpetuity. Rectilinear plots of land enclosed by earth bunds are ploughed, mudded, and levelled to ensure uniform distribution of water by means of furrows.

Water led into the plot through an opening at the highest point is evenly distributed and finally led out of the plot to reach a drainage channel. A hard pan of clay below the layer of mud prevents the percolation of water.

Two or sometimes three crops are harvested in the cultivation year and such mono-culture needs highly labour intensive techniques. It ensures maximum productivity of a given plot of paddy while maintaining sound ecological practices of soil and water conservation."

The earliest reference in English literature pertaining to Sri Lanka to the stem assvadhuma is by John D'Oyly from A Sketch of the Constitution of the Kandyan Kingdom (1835[1929]:54): "Aswedduma or Dalupata, is Land lately brought into Cultivation as a Paddy Field, or more recently than the original Field. In most Instances the Aswedduma of one Person is not of very considerable Extent."

Charles Dickman, writing in The Ceylon Civil Service Manual (1865), appears to be the first to record asweddumize: "Assvaddumising is the conversion of forest land into paddy fields by constructing a series of terraces rising stage above stage."

E. R. Leach remarks in Pul Eliya: A Village in Ceylon. A Study of Land Tenure and Kinship (1961.46): "Land that was already asweddumised, that is, laid out in rectangular flat terraces for rice cultivation, was also mostly recognised as private property." And (Ibid.218), "Before rough jungle can be used as rice land it must be asweddumised, that is, cleared of tree roots, levelled out into terraces and carefully graded so that the irrigation water will feed into all parts of the field in a controlled and even manner."

According to V. Vamadevan, author of The Ceylon We Knew (1995:89): "Asweddumise in the English language is to prepare a field for sowing paddy. It is used in spoken English but has not gained currency in English dictionaries... The Sinhala word assvadhuma is considered to be the root."

Asweddumise forms the subject of the article, "The Word 'Asweddumise' - A Mare's Nest?" by Anura Jayantha Ranwala from the Ceylon Daily News (February 11, 1997). Ranwala begins by asking readers whether they know how many words of Sinhala origin have been loaned to the English language: "Though many of you may not know the exact answer to this question you will probably say that there is at least one word... asweddumise."

Ranwala turned to the Oxford Dictionary Word and Language Service (OWLS), who informed him that there is no entry for asweddumize in the OED2: "Though there are many other words which had been loaned to English way back in the late 17th century, the lurking word asweddumise is not among them."

In his article, Ranwala exhorted "all linguaphiles, authorities of Sinhalese and English, and the language departments of our universities, to come up with facts to buttress the existence and use of asweddumise."

However, his appeal seems to have had little result, for according to the editors of the OED, no examples of the word ended up on file at Oxford.

Arjuna's Atlas of Sri Lanka (1997:86) explains: "The cropping intensity for an area is computed by adding together the extents cultivated during the maha and yala seasons, dividing by the total extent of asweddumized land and converting this to a percentage."

Chandana Dissanayake, author of "'Kaduwa' 2000 - some possibilities of protest within Lankan English-Sinhala bilingualism," published in the Ceylon Daily News (January 3, 2001) is another who believes that the word is recorded in "British dictionaries" as he puts it: "English... has been continuously Lankanized not so much through a few words that have entered British dictionaries through political intervention such as asveddumize... but through day-to-day intervention of the different social classes."

The postdating reference is by Malinda Seneviratne who writes in the Island (September 9, 2002): "He had helped his parents clear the jungle, asweddumize the cleared land, till it, protect it and reap bountiful harvests."

chena (1821). "[Adapted from Sinhalese hena.] A form of shifting cultivation in Sri Lanka. Also, the shrubby vegetation produced by such cultivation or a piece of land used for this."

The earliest reference given in the dictionary is by W. M. G. Colebrooke from his Parliamentary Papers (1832:104): "The high lands called Chenas, which are cleared and cultivated only at intervals of several years."

However, there is an antedating or earlier reference by James Cordiner from A Description of Ceylon (1807[1983]:231): "The ground cultivated from small jungle, or brushwood, is called chemass, and affords only one crop of the fine or dry grains."

A further early reference is by John Davy from An Account of the Interior of Ceylon (1821:270): "When the ground is covered with underwood, as it usually is, it is called a Chenas.

The operation of cultivating such ground commences, in the dry season, with cutting down the underwood, strongly fencing, and burning in heaps the dried wood not used in making the fence. No sooner is the surface thus cleared, than the ground is dug up and sown. During the whole time the crop is in the ground, it is nightly watched, to defend it from wild animals, as deer, hogs, elephants, etc. which abound in most parts of the country, and are the farmer's greatest enemies."

The most recent or postdating reference given in the dictionary is by R. L. Spittel from Vanished Trails (1950:152): "Illuk glades, those graveyards of once magnificent forests felled for chenas."

There are later references, of course. For example, R. L. Brohier writes in Discovering Ceylon (1973[1982]:203): "An arena with a vivid green background of forest. A palisade, about four feet high, surrounding the open space where the forest had lately been felled and burnt."

"A medley of charred and seared tree-stumps, an expanse of bronzed ripening grain, dazzling sunshine, and an overpowering glare - we had walked into the working chena."

The postdating reference is by James L. A. Webb Jr. from Tropical Pioneers: Human Agency and Ecological Change in the Highlands of Sri Lanka, 1800-1900 (2002:38): "The chena lands were those on which the villagers grew dry grains, including rain-fed rice and cotton and they were neither irrigated nor terraced."


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