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Esther Williams continues her exploration of India's Karnataka state
Sandalwood and silk in the City of Palaces
We have never marketed Karnataka as aggressively as certain other states, although we have an abundance of tourist attractions," said the Commissioner of Tourism, Government of Karnataka, India, also the Managing Director of the Karnataka State Tourism Development Corporation. "Karnataka is a lesser-known tourist destination but just as fascinating - all its attractions are dramatic," he continued explaining that tourism was the state's priority industry at present.

"Ever since Bangalore Airport became international, with flights coming in from Dubai, Sri Lanka and Malaysia, tourism has improved," the Commissioner commented. The archaeological survey has been doing its bit to update the information base while the Tourist Department has taken effective measures for the upkeep of these priceless monuments, he said.

Other plans of the department are the launch of the Karnataka Traveller, a compendium of information and logistics and an updated website (Karnatakatourism.org). "Eventually what we would like to do is to make Bangalore a hub for South Asian tourism that can offer packages for the region to include Sri Lanka, Thailand and Maldives," the Commissioner said.

Mysore, the City of Palaces, known for its royal splendour and pageantry is 140 kms away from Bangalore, easily accessible by road or rail from Bangalore or Chennai. Having been the capital of the Wodeyar kings, the Maharaja's Palace reflects the glory of that 16th Century dynasty.

Today Mysore is a pleasant city with an old world charm - broad shady avenues, well laid out gardens, gracious buildings and fine climate - that makes it a popular tourist destination. Visitors from all over India flock to this region.

Designed by the English architect, Henry Irwin, the Mysore Palace dominates the skyline. The three-storied structure built in the Indo-Saracenic style between 1879 and 1912 has beautifully designed square towers and domes. Its ornate ceiling, sculpted pillars, carved doors, stained glass, paintings and famed jewel encrusted golden throne are amongst the palace treasures. Many Indian movies requiring a palace setting are shot here.

Other places of interest in Mysore are the Jaganmohan Palace with an art gallery attached, Lalitha Mahal Palace and Chamundi Hill. The Dasara festival held in October each year is celebrated with pomp, its pageants echoing the grandeur of the royal past.

Dasara celebrates the victory of good over evil. During the 10-day event, the city is lit up and wears a festive look. Traditional wrestling matches, a crafts fair and film festivals are held culminating in a procession on the final day. This procession is led by elephants carrying an idol of goddess Chamundeshwari, seated in a golden elephant seat, followed by decorated horses, folk dancers and colourful floats. This is quite similar to the Kandy Esala Perahera.

It is exciting to take home the carved Sandalwood objects, inlay work, incense and silk scarves, shirts and sarees that Mysore is famous for. The Mysore silk is lighter than the Kanchipuram silk, with the designs varying between solid with gold/silver zari or intricate prints.

While leaving the city, one must be sure to take in the Ranganathitu bird sanctuary and the Brindavan gardens, just outside Mysore. These ornamental gardens with synchronised water fountains are illuminated at night, transforming the entire area into a magical fairyland.

Most visitors do Mysore in a day. But should you wish to linger, there are a number of good star hotels with modern facilities.

After visiting the heritage and pilgrimage circuits in Hassan and Mysore, there are a number of other destinations to choose from. Should you have a preference for nature and wildlife, the Bandipur wildlife sanctuary and Nagerhole National Park are optional. These dense forest areas where you are bound to see elephants, gaur, barking deer and the common langur were at one time the hunting grounds of the kings of that period. Facilities are available here for a unique camping experience.

The hill stations all along the western region are picturesque with sandalwood forests, coffee and spice plantations. One district that needs special mention is Coorg, the source of the river Cauvery, known for its coffee and cardamom.

A popular weekend getaway, just 60 kms from Bangalore are the Nandi Hills. At 1,455 feet above sea level, the spot was at one time the idyllic summer retreat for the Tippu Sultan and later the British. Two ancient temples dedicated to Lord Shiva grace the hills - one at the foot and the other at the peak. This spot shot into prominence during the visits of Queen Elizabeth II in the 60s and the heads of SAARC countries in the 80s.

Westward flowing rivers meander through the thick forests in coastal Karnataka and break into a number of streams and waterfalls. The ideal time to visit Sivasamudram and the Jog Falls is during or soon after the monsoon.

All along the 320-km coastline are unspoilt beaches, most of them having shore temples dedicated to various gods and goddesses which are an indication of the importance of religion.

Culture
The state also boasts a rich and vibrant culture that is reflected in the art forms like Yakshagana (celestial dance drama), leather puppetry that enacts stories from the Ramayana and Mahabaratha and Booth Aradhana (devil worship). Most of these art forms which flourished under royal patronage are still prevalent in some remote villages.

The fairs and festivals of Karnataka, unique to the region, reverberate with colour and gaiety. Unique among them is the Buffalo Race, a rural sport that originated as a royal pastime and was later continued by feudal lords.

The Karaga festival is celebrated each year in March/April at the Dharmaraja Swamy Temple in Bangalore. On the auspicious day, just after dusk, a priest dressed in female attire leads a spectacular procession to the accompaniment of a dazzling display of swords by dhoti clad, bare-chested members of the Thilagar community. On his head he carries a flower decked pyramid. It has been a tradition during the festival to visit the tomb of an 18th century Muslim saint. Today it is a symbol of Hindu-Muslim unity.

Bangalore
Heading back to Karnataka's capital and India's fifth largest city, Bangalore is called a variety of names: Garden City, Silicon Valley of India, Pub City, Shoppers' Paradise, etc. Founded in 1537 by Kempegowda, a feudal lord who served the rulers of the Vijayanagar empire, Bangalore at 3,250 feet above sea level offers visitors delightful weather conditions throughout the year.

It is considered by many to be India's science and technology capital with world class facilities. It is also home to the International Technology Park Ltd. (ITPL) that houses over 100 IT companies from all over the world. Indian software giants like Infosys and Wipro are also headquartered here.

It is rightly called the city of contrasts because in addition to being a major industrial and commercial centre, it has a number of historical monuments like the Tippu Sultan's Fort and Summer Palace and also modern shopping malls (offering both traditional clothing like sarees and shalwars and also western wear), a race course, several golf courses, bowling alleys, internet browsing centres and traditional arts and crafts stores. Bangalore has a large number of restaurants, and the pubs with their pub lunches are especially popular.

Shopping
Offered at very competitive prices are the silks of Bangalore and Mysore that are woven in rich colours with delicate gold threads in a variety of combinations. Karnataka is also home to sandalwood. In the craft shops oil, perfume, pens, paper knives, wood carvings and inlay work made of this exotic wood are on sale with special discounts during the festive season.

A must buy are the traditional Mysore paintings made with bright vegetable dyes and the exquisitely crafted metal objects interwoven with creepers and flowing floral patterns. The garments and ornaments made with block prints and tie-&-dye with mirrors and beads are popular.

Cuisine
Each region in Karnataka has its traditional cuisine - Coorgi, Mangalorean, north and south Karnataka. For breakfast one can choose upma or uppittu made of semolina, idlis, masala dosa, puri, vada or kesari bhath. A variety of rice based dishes constitute lunch - chitranna (lime rice), vangibhath (brinjal rice), puliyogare (tamarind rice), and the most special among them is the Bisi bele bhath, a combination of rice, dhal, vegetables, nuts, etc. Coorgi cuisine is as distinctive as their costume (a special way of draping the saree) comprising rice dumplings and pork curry. Mysore Pak, Obbattu or payasa are sweets that can end a delightful meal.

A cure for every ill
Book review
"Pharmaceutical Drugs and Health" by Allenson de Silva. Reviewed by Kishanie S. Fernando

Today marks the 25th death anniversary of Professor Senaka Bibile, widely regarded as a prophet of modern medicine - but as usual getting little by way of honour in his own country where his hallowed principles are on a death-bed.

Prof. Bibile who was the founder Chairman of the State Pharmaceutical Corporation is respected all over the world as the father of a national health policy involving principles such as rational drug use, empowerment of the patient and restoring the welfare of the patient as the centre-piece of a country's healthcare and medical services.

He fought a virtually lone campaign to liberate national healthcare services from the captivity of trans national corporations.

Today, to mark the Bibile anniversary we publish a review of a recent book which shows how TNCs are using the market economy to exploit patients more than ever before and often with the collaboration of medical specialists.

The Logos Volume 40 publication, "Pharmaceutical Drugs and Health" is an insight into the pharmaceutical industry and its consequent effects on the consumer.

The study was inspired by the South African lawsuit instituted by the drug Transnational Combines (TNCs) challenging the Medicines And Related Substances Control (Amendment) Act which allowed compulsory licensing and parallel importing of AIDS drugs and other drugs. They were compelled to unconditionally drop their case against South African Government because of an intense international campaign for affordable medicines.

The writer effectively sets out the related topics of drug users, drug manufacturers, drug regulators, a Third World perspective, and some current trends in the field, fulfilling a long standing need in layman's language.

The real strength of this study rests in the spirit of veracity based on extensive references made to international and local documents, country experiences, cross country and industry comparisons, statistics, fact finding reports, medical and economic journals.

Part I of the book is devoted to users of pharmaceuticals with a view to empowering them on the proper use of drugs, their benefits and safety, their limited therapeutic efficacy, overuse and misuse of antibiotics, some popular myths and misinformation on vitamins. The writer stresses the WHO disapproval of unwarranted medications for transient ailments which pass off with time, nature itself providing the cures and which may itself impair the body's resistance and natural healing system or even worsen the situation.

He discusses concepts like "Rational Use of Drugs" (RUD), extending in some countries even to options of non drug therapy and reasons for problems like self medication.

The writer advocates the use of lower-cost quality generic alternatives. In Sri Lanka he lists the available generics and their high-cost equivalent brand-name drugs, the commonest being paracetamol, a generic sold at 30 cents which under the brand name Panadol sells at Rs. 1.50.

Lately generics are becoming the only affordable relief to growing infectious diseases like HIV/AIDS.

Reference is made to the preferences and biases of dispensing doctors in the selection of drugs in an environment of aggressive drug promotional campaigns by large brand-name drug companies, where information supplied by drug companies may be biased, misleading or incomplete.

Part II of the book traces the historic development of the drug industry from small manufacturing firms to huge TNCs owning 90% of the patents gaining a huge control over pharmaceuticals and dominating global markets. The writer quotes some appalling facts on their policies and strategies of production and marketing. The analysis is enhanced by some interesting Annexures on bribes, corruption, scandals, misrepresentation, fraud and over registration of drugs.

The writer attributes the uncontrollable spiralling of drug prices to the inelastic demand that enables the producers to violate prices without a decrease in demand supported by the TRIPS Agreement and a patent system which protects and fosters their monopolistic control. Supportive statistics dispel the common claims of research and development for increasing costs. He refers to studies indicating that research is often directed at high priced drugs and on diseases that afflict the affluent classes whereas research in Third World countries such as India has supported and prompted the production of less expensive generic drugs.

Inclusion of Tables revealing the astronomical profits of leading TNCs in comparison to costs of research and marketing shows that in 2000 the pharmaceutical industry lived up to its reputation of being the most profitable industry. Sadly a case of corporate profits over health.

The writer suggests price reduction strategies like compulsory licensing, parallel imports, checking on the practices of transfer pricing, strict price control measures, restrictions on the use of patent drugs and greater use of lower cost good quality generics, increased support to local manufacturers, limitation of promotional activities of drug firms etc.

Part III emphasizes the duty of the state in formulating and implementing a "National Drug Policy" based on entitling every person to basic health care. The writer sets out a basic framework and suggests some important components which should be included like the "essential drug list" to treat major diseases and ailments. The writer advocates "the most effective and least cost principle", emphasizing on generic drugs of good quality. Cost however should not be the guiding factor but essentially be available to those who cannot afford it.

In Part IV of the book the writer analyses the Third World situation in health and disease concluding that health has become a luxury for the poor in countries like Sri Lanka. He points out that globalization which prompts a free market coupled with privatization ultimately affects state services that serve the poor. He also refers to some critical issues like patent rights, parallel imports, compulsory licensing and differential prices entailing tremendous international ramifications. Part V briefs the reader on some emerging trends like direct-to-consumer advertising and bio technology. And the final conclusive chapter challenges the societal obligation to ensure the right to health care against the right to monopolies and profits which is morally outrageous and reprehensible.

Maligawa attack and aftermath
With the advent of 1998, the focus of attention of the nation was on Independence Day, February 4, 1998, the fiftieth anniversary of our Independence. The occasion was to be graced by the Prince of Wales, Prince Charles, who was deputising for his parents, Queen Elizabeth II and the Duke of Edinburgh. The arrangements were on a lavish scale and the principal celebrations were to be in Kandy, where the last King of Kandy surrendered to the British way back in 1815.

About one week before the arrival of the Prince of Wales, the Liberation Tigers of Tamil Eelam (LTTE) completed their reconnaissance of Kandy. Their intelligence was made at how slack our security was on Kings Street. The street had the Remand Jail, the President's House and the Court House, however there was just one check point. That was outside the President House. There were no mobile patrols and the solitary check point was manned by just two Policemen.

At 0600 hours on the morning of Sunday, January 25, 1998 there was a routine shift in security. At the Queen's Hotel, Kandy, they were preparing breakfast to a full house of foreign tourists. Kandy itself was a hive of activity, preparing for the celebrations on Independence Day. A common sight were lorries and half-trucks carrying building materials for the temporary constructions.

At 0605 hours a Isuzu Elf half-truck bearing number 43-1396 turned into Kings Street en route to the Temple of the Tooth some four hundred metres away. It had a cargo of three hundred kilograms of explosives and at the wheel was a Tiger Commando named "Master". On board were three Tiger Commandos armed with AK-47 repeater rifles. They were dressed in civilian clothes. When this vehicle approached the security check point in front of the President's House, Commando "Master" accelerated the vehicle while the other terrorists opened fire. Under a hail of bullets, the half-truck rammed through the check point. The vehicle drove past the Court House and turned into Dalada Vidiya on which stood the Temple of the Tooth, in all its majesty. When the vehicle was abreast of the main entrance of this world famous Buddhist shrine, there was a massive explosion.

The four Tiger terrorists perished in the explosion. So did eleven innocent pilgrims. Hundreds of pilgrims and foreign tourists were injured. Every building in the vicinity was damaged. Consequently the Queen's Hotel had to be closed down for one year.

Above all, the sacred Temple of the Tooth was damaged extensively. The explosion had ripped off the roof and in many areas broken rafters were hanging precariously. The Temple walls were cracked, the decorative wall on the perimeter smashed, and the entrance in smithereens.

The sacrilege was akin to the Irish terrorists causing explosions in Westminster Abbey in London or Islamic fundamentalists causing explosions in St. Peter's Basilica in Rome. The reaction amongst our citizens was predictable. The Buddhists were livid. The Christians, Muslims and Hindus were angry. They all condemned this cowardly attack by the Tigers. So did the international community, who some years ago naively thought the Tigers were freedom fighters and not terrorists.

In Parliament, for once the Sri Lanka Freedom Party (SLFP) in Government and the United National Party (UNP) in Opposition, joined hands to proscribe the Tigers. In the President's House, President Chandrika Bandaranaike Kumaratunga took the decision to transfer the Independence Day celebrations from Kandy to Sri Jayawardenepura, the capital of Sri Lanka situated on the outskirts of Colombo, and to have such celebrations on a limited scale.

Thus the civil war raged on without an end in sight. The Chief of Staff of the Army, Major-General Srilal Weerasoriya RWP, RSP, VSV, USP, was the Overall Operations Commander in the North. The battle scarred General was having the same experience with the Tigers as the Generals of the Indian Peace Keeping Force had ten years earlier.

The Tigers could be driven out of the Jaffna peninsula but they could not be evicted from the Wanni.

In 1998 the successes of the Army were minimal and therefore early in1999 some influential members of the clergy took upon themselves the task of negotiation for peace. A delegation of ten influential Buddhist monks accompanied by Bishop Kenneth Fernando, Bishop of Colombo of the Church of Ceylon, and Bishop Rayappu Joseph of the Roman Catholic Church went behind the forward defence lines in the quest for peace. At Mallavi they met the hierarchy of the LTTE led by S.P. Thamilchelvam, the Chief of the Political Wing and the trusted lieutenant of Prabhakaran.

At the outset the Tigers asked for forgiveness for having desecrated The Temple of the Tooth. The delegation of Buddhist priests was visibly shaken by this gesture. They were further shaken by 1130 hours when alms were offered to the Buddhist clergy with Buddhist protocol being observed to perfection. Some monks even candidly admitted that they had been offered alms with even greater finesse than devout Buddhists observe.

Thereafter the negotiations began on a relaxed note. Thamilchelvam wound up the session pleading with the Venerable monks to take their submissions direct to President Chandrika Bandaranaike Kumaratunga. She gave an appointment to the delegation to meet her in May 1999, three months away. When Prabhakaran heard of this he was livid and the negotiations collapsed.

Then Prabhakaran took some far-reaching decisions. Those decisions were:

a) The President to be assassinated using suicide bombers.

b) To celebrate the Millennium with the liberation of Jaffna. As a first step to liberate Elephant Pass in 1999.

Thus the die was cast. The consequences would necessarily be drastic and Sri Lanka would bleed in 1999 either as much or more than what she had bled in 1983, when the civil war had begun. That became abundantly clear in the last quarter of 1999 when Prabhakaran launched his Operation Unceasing Waves. Contd. next week


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